The Enlightenment Comes To Slovakia… Or Does It?

Notas Ex Historicus: This is a special edition post in my series on Slovak history. I felt that to attempt to lay out the coming of the Enlightenment would perhaps draw a clearer picture of how it impacted life in Central Europe. The High/Late Middle Ages are the culmination of change that arises from many factors, and I will lay some of them before you. Our Slovaks are occupants of most of the territory we know here in the 21st century, and although some traditions of culture may be nascent at this point, they are one of the many peoples subjugated by the Magyars….on to the Enlightenment.

Europe at the turn of the 14th century was beginning to feel the effects of the Renaissance, the rise of “central mercantilism”, and consolidation of power in banking and trade. As a result of the flow of ideas from both the Renaissance and the Scientific Revolution, the thinkers began a “Humanistic” approach to understanding their world. They believed human nature, and thus human actions were of greater importance than the divine (or super-nature), and push to develop the goodness and potential of human beings along the lines of common interests. The Protestant Reformation occurs in the 16thc and is a result of the too-powerful clerics of the Catholic Church. As we witnessed with Jan Hus, Martin Luther aimed to ideally put worship in the hands of the worshippers. An important note is that there are still many dying from wars of conquest, and various peasant revolts are taking place.

The European population has increased in the 16thc after stagnation in the previous two centuries. An influx of new imported commodities enrich material life – namely superior cotton, spices, teas, and fabrics as a result of exploration to far-flung lands. Commerce within Europe becomes more “continental” (greater borrowing/lending among nation-states), and the manipulation of capital among merchants, traders, and (esp.) bankers harbors the advent of Western Capitalism. Europe mixes this into the new values of culture, politics, and international relations, and as result, the Europeans have a new vision of themselves in the world around them. Ideas borne in the Enlightenment such as liberty, equality, and fraternity were lost on the early Slovaks. Although by the 17thc serfdom was largely eradicated from Western Europe, it was still in place in Central and Eastern Europe.

With the ascension to the throne of Maria Theresa in Austria in 1740 (as Queen of Hungary/ she was also crowned as Holy Roman Empress in 1745) conditions were only slightly better for our Slovaks… there was still another century-plus to go for the Slovaks to gain a voice in their well-being. Maria Theresa was among the “enlightened despots” of the rulers of Europe at the time; as well as Fredrick the Great (Germany) and Catherine II (Russia). They believed that their royal reigns were a product of a social contract and not divine right – like so many crowns of the past. They trusted that they were given the power to rule in the place of any other form of government. For her part, I can say that she focused on reforms to the Austrian military, and the overall efficiency of the Austrian bureaucracy, but she still portrayed a somewhat un-enlightened influence of the past rulers and found it difficult to fit into the spirit of the new order of thinking. She did institute reforms in medicine and an overhaul of the education system. She established the first technical school in the world devoted to mining here in Banska Stiavnica (Bahn-ska Shteve-ah-neetsa). Working against the Hungarian nobility proved somewhat futile when it came to improving the lives of our young Slovak culture.

As the separation of church and state was slowly instituted, the rule of the nobles in the Upper Kingdom instituted a more stern form of serfdom, and pushed for greater integration of the Magyar language. Remember, that Hungary has been essentially under the rule of the Ottomans (at least 60% of the land area), and yet still made up the largest source of revenue for the Austrian crown. The strength, I believe, falls squarely on the shoulders of our Slovaks. Rich in precious metals, agriculture, and central in trade, Slovakia availed its wealth to Vienna. The Hungarian nobles recognized this and retained as much control as they were able… further squeezing our Slovaks. In the midst of this our greatest thinkers come to the fore. Jan Kollar, and Anton Bernolak can be credited, along with others in this period pre-Stur, with attempting to codify a Slovak language. An important idea to always keep in mind, is that these men were theologically trained, and many were leaders of either the Catholic or Protestant faith. In a coming post, I will take the time to list some of them. Also, as a nod to my dear cousin Patricia, I will list authors of papers investigating the history of women in Slovakia/Upper Kingdom of any era.

My end purpose in the coming posts is to draw the reader into taking an “umbrella view” of the history of not only Europe, but the rest of the world. I would proffer that look from high above and see history occuring below you… all at once. If you are able to see the “big picture”, then you will be aptly placed to see how our Slovaks have fared and will continue to fare through their history. From my standpoint, the Enlightenment is one of the seminal moments in European history. In following posts, I will devote attention to the development of the Slovaks as a linguistic group, as a cultural entity, and to the underpinnings of the burgeoning Slovak national aspirations. From this moment in the Enlightenment (18thc), touching upon the ideals along the way, until the 20th century, and ending at World War I – will be the most formative and defining age of the Slovaks. There will also be greater reference to the men responsible for the ideas of the Enlightenment and how it situated Europe into the world order.

I appreciate anyone taking the time to read this special post highlighting the Enlightenment; I promise to get further into the ideas and actions that influence the history of the Slovaks, and allow you to get the notion of how complex this history truly is. There is an ocean of minute details, and I apologize for leaving out some, and including others. My intent is to pique your interest in any (or all) of the past here in Central Europe; perhaps nudging you to look for yourselves. For those reading with Slovak ancestry, I hope it spurs you to look into your roots, to ask questions of your elders, or even come for a visit. You must know that your ancestors provide a link to a past that is real and you are part of an epic historical episode that is still flowing forward from deep in the headwaters of time.

Thank you for taking a few moments to read this post. As always, feel free to send me comments, as it does nothing but sharpen my writing, perhaps focus on an issue you might be seeking to answer, or questioning my methods… every comment is welcomed. Please take care of yourselves, and take care of each other.

Coming Home To Slovakia

With each day that passes, I feel more at home here, and I am beginning to settle in. At my age the language is still coming slow. Last evening at Jelen for our weekly socialization, I was able to pick out a few words here and there. I can utter a few phrases, but hearing it is still my biggest sticking point. If I didn’t mention before, I have a host of people aiding me in another shot at a visa. This an allowance for visiting lecturers. Prof. Homza is sponsoring me due to my acute interest in our history and culture. I am humbled by his aegis. I have refrained from signing up for a formal language class because I have not been sure that I wouldn’t be asked to leave. But at this point, with all the help I am recieving, if I am granted this study/lecture visa, I will enrol immediately. I am eager to be able to hear what is being said to me. It is a difficult language to learn, as there are many rules of usage… much like English.

Prof. Homza has written the first letter of three, and after reading it I am feeling particularly graced. He has enlisted our good friend Vlado, owner of Jelen and we have tapped into his connections. Also we have a pledge from a member of the Office of Foreign Relations in parliament to assist in my efforts to stay… for at least 2 years. I will continue to aide Prof. Homza in his next project – to write a book on the Slovaks for an American audience. It will essentially be a continuation of what I have been doing here in this blog. I want to issue a fair warning to my dear readers and followers – my blogs may lengthen somewhat. I have purposely kept them short, knowing that most who read it don’t have the 10/15 minutes to spend on my missives. There is still a wide ground to cover, and since we are coming into my area of interest – Slovakia during the Enlightenment – I believe that I will slow down a in limning out how our history played out.

I would like to reach out to as many Slovaks in the US as possible. Though my intent is not to connect with only the ancestors of Slovakia, I am aware that many readers don’t understand the importance of truly knowing their ancestry, so in the end perhaps this blog may serve as an impetus for looking back into their own past generations. I will eventually take a trip to Germany to look into the ancestors of my maternal side as well. I ask only that you humor me and continue to read my posts, as I will attempt to let the world know what we have here in Slovakia. To those with Slovak heritage, I say come back home. You will find your old roots still exsist here. The Slovaks are among the kindest and giving I have met in my travels to this point. Once they know that you are a Slovak, you are automatically “kindred” and they are open to sharing their homeland with you. In future posts I will touch on our unsurpassed geography, and the cities dripping with history from their eaves and doorposts.

The History Corner

I left our last History Corner at the end of the Late Middle Ages. The urbanization of the Kingdom of Hungary following the Mongol Invasions in the mid-13th continued through to the Late Middle Ages (+/- 1500 AD.). After previous centuries of disease, population decline, and famines, the cities of Europe began to rebound, although growth was slow. Post-invasion Hungary experienced literacy incrementally. Influencing the urban literacy were main drivers: 1) The Royal Chancery, 2) Nobles and Administration, 3) Ecclesiastic Institutions, and 4) Foreign Towns, esp. where newly arriving Germans were forming hospices, or lodging for religious students. In a transitory period (2nd half of the 13thc) Bratislava becomes a capital of the literacy culture due to its urban chancery… at type of records office for public archives, and in this case – ecclesiastical, legal, and diplomatic transactions/proceedings. Bratislava is documented as having its own scribes in the 14th century, and still preserves the extant charters from periods prior. The charters grant privileges given by the crown to carry on trade, issue its own laws, defend itself, and most importantly, keep records of everyday life. In these extant (still-survived) chancery ledgers are the recordings of legal, economic, and social developments in the city.

In the case of late-medieval Slovakia, it was the most urbanized portion of the Hungarian kingdom. Only a few achives from that period survive in present-day Hungary (Sopron, Buda, and Pest), while in Slovakia most were based in a long scholarly tradition. They were published for the academic public. The oldest town books survive from Bratislava and Banska Stiavnica (1364), followed by Kosice (1393-1405/ a specialized book of judicial protocols), and town books from Bardejov (1418), Presov (1424), Spisska Nova Ves (1383), Trnava (1394), Zvolen (1400), Kezmarok (1434), Zilina (1378), and Kremnica (1426). NOTE: I list these towns with dates to further display that the laic members of their culture were literate, and to denote them for any Slovaks who may be reading this from abroad. Our cities go back into history deeply, and we should be aware that Slovakia’s history is as viable as any other.

Another of the drivers of literacy were the influx of German and Jewish immigrants, among those from the West. These two culture groups alone account for the greatest impetus for expanding literacy in the Upper Kingdom. Highly esteemed for their business and trade prowess, both groups were able to read and retained this trait as part of their families, schools, and houses of worship. Although this does not mean that the multitude of Slovaks were able to read and write, it does set us up for the Reformations, and the growing need for followers to read and interpret the Bible for themselves (this was one of Martin Luther’s intentions).

Latin remains in this period as the primary language of Nobles and Administration, and certainly in the Ecclesiatic writings of the day. We are still without Slovak as a “lingua franca” (common language) among the Slovaks of the Upper Kingdom. In order: 1)Latin, 2) Magyar, 3) German, 4) Glagolitic – the language of Cyril and Methodius… it wouldn’t be until the early 19thc that Slovak is truly codified as a language by Anton Bernolak. The Reformation (and Counter-Reformations) are an impetus for literacy, the spoken word is still the rule, until the the 17th and 18th centuries, respectively. I will revisit the importance of language for establishing the viablilty of culture.

I will post again this coming weekend to show how the Enlightenment (an English term for the Age of Reason – was first used in the late 19thc) came to our Slovaks, what it meant to them, and how it may have affected change in their lives. I thank each and everyone reading this blog. I hope that I can continue to hold your interest; the world simply does not know about our small country here Central Europe. Until we meet again, please take care of yourselves, and take care of each other.

Open Season At The Golden Deer

With Stephan (L), & Danko at Zlaty Jelen

Last evening, the 1st of August, we met again at Zlaty Jelen (Golden Deer) with friends. After summer holiday, Vlado has begun a new year here at our old meeting place in a long-forgotten wine cellar. Daniel has become a good friend and a very reliable source of the small aspects of our history. We meet as often as we can aside from Jelen, and discuss more ideas than I can list here. Along with Stephan (our defacto waiter), Daniel is doing research on Slovakia’s past. Their input is a major help in gaining an understanding of the whole of Slovak history. Also, I had an enlightening converstion with Jan Palffy. His ancestors were among the noted nobility in the Kingdom of Hungary. He is a great mind also, and is key illuminating the past for me. All of the regulars are very kind, and welcoming to me, in spite of my lack of language skill… it is still coming slowly.

I met with Prof. Homza privately to discuss our strategy regarding my visa search, and my connection to his research. There is still so very much to learn about the totality of our history; I am dedicated to absorbing as much as possible. Vlado served up an incredible stew (with Stephan’s help), and dinner was as always beyond compare. We always have some sort of wild game, and rice or dumplings. Appetizers of Vlado’s homemade sausage and bryndza on the freshest of baguette rounds await as we walk into the main room where we gather.

Since I can only pick out a few words as the “elders” discuss politics and other ideas, I listen with intent and attempt to gather what I can, and with Daniel’s help I to understand the “mind-set” of the Slovaks… if it possible. I sorely miss my conversations with Pavel Dubcek about everything under the sun. I will never forget the look on his face when I asked him if he was related to the great Alexander Dubcek that stood up for Czecho-Slovakia in 1968… of course he was his son. I think it endeared me to him all the more. I will never forget him, and I will never forget being invited to his wake and funeral. I felt like my passion for Slovakia and the Slovaks was understood and welcomed by this esteemed group of notables.

As I forge these friendships, I gain a better understanding of how we should think and feel about this small country in East Central Europe. A country, in my opinion, that has lived behind a veil of the past of others only to appear and disappear into history for brief moments. Now, since the split from the Czechs in 1993, this beautiful “secret” between the Danube and the High Tatras is coming onto the stage of the world. I have yet to see our Slovenska Narodna Galeria (Slovak National Gallery), and I have a trip planned with Prof. Homza. We both agree that it would provide me with a better grasp of our “complicated” history. For me there is no better way to get a measure of a culture than to see the art it has created over time. I have been reading excerpts from some of our great thinkers and it is only the tip of the iceberg. I accept my mission to fully understand this culture, and then to provide it to the world…because the world simply doesn’t know us. I have stated this in many past posts. I am very thankful for each and every soul that I meet and talk to.

Caryatids that watch over me as I sit at Dolnozemska krcma and write. They are two of the many archtectural appointments from the Baroque period on the Palaces here in the Old Town.

THE HISTORY CORNER

Notas ex Historicus:…in my last post I erroneously cited that Louis I of Hungary issued “Privilegeum Pribius”… I have to read my notes better. The edict was in fact termed “Privilegeum pro Slavis” – “Privilege for Slovaks”. If I haven’t expounded on this in the past, the Slovaks take their name from a derivation for the word “Slav”. As seen in Prof. Homza’s instructions on YouTube, Slovan is used as well….my apologies.

Acting only as a primer for my readers, I have avoided spending time on the unending royal intrigue that occurs after each King dies, or has his power usurped. After the Mongols have returned to the Steppe, there is enough royal and palace tumult to fill an entire season of Game of Thrones. I decided to let you look it up, if you are so inclined. Hungary has, by now, garnered a great deal of attention from the Western European houses of imperial power, the most obvious being the Habsburg right next door in Austria. Some at this point are Marie of Anjou (Mary of Hungary), her son Charles II of Naples, then Sigismonde of Luxemburg – who becomes the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, and King of Bohemia. Sigismonde, would later condemn Jan Hus to death, and even more astounding, “Sigi” would sell 16 villages in Spis (northern Slovakia/South of the Tatras) to Poland for a financial loan. You can’t make this stuff up folks! This is just a short succession in a long European history of royals treating the land and their subjects as personal property…. if I spend any length of time trying to sort it out, this post would read for at least an hour or two.

The Hungarian King Matthias continues to institute changes to the culture: one being the establishment of a university in Pressburg (German for Bratislava), he also was a patron of the arts and learning. he constructed additions to the palace in Buda, and the ground-up build of a palace in Visegrad. Mentioned along with his name is Da Vinci, who is asked to design the ornate house of power. Also Matthias Corvinus is a warrior king, and he goes toe-to-toe with now powerful Ottomans. As all of the crowned kings of state, he is a religious man, and vows to save Christendom from the “heathen-worshipping” Ottomans. Matthais is also involved with Vlad Dracula at this point and the two cross paths a few times, with Matthias throwing Vlad in a prison cell.

All the while Central Europe (and Matthias) is dealing with the aftermath of Hussitism. The Hussites fought many battles-of-religion on Slovak soil. I am raising Jan Hus (1369-1445) to the fore here because not many know of his significance, and I for one believe him to be one of the greatest influences in the High Middle Ages. He is a forerunner of Martin Luther, who himself (Luther) had an impact on my own ancestors. Hus was a Czech theologian, and his rebellion against the Catholic Church had repercussions in the Slovak lands.

At this point in our historical journey, I want to diverge to sketch a clearer image of the High Middle Ages. The Catholic Church in the west had amassed an enormous amount of wealth and political power. The Eastern Catholic Church (Byzantium) has been destroyed by the Ottomans. The sole Catholic power structure standing now; it was responsible for manipulation of the souls under its care, and it was definitely the “power behind the thrones” of Europe. Earlier in our History Corner we witnessed how the Bishop of Wiching was able to sway the strength of the church in Great Moravia to expel St. Methodius and thus gain ecclesiatic dominion under the aegis of the Pope in Rome. By the time Hus is present (15th century) the Church is bankrupt, morally and spiritually speaking. The Church had the influence to make kings and kingdoms, controlled alliances, and landholdings by leveraging the “power of God” over those who dared to confront its policies. Thus when the Church lacked the spiritual hold on its members, it began to sell indulgences (“privileges of the spirit”), and this led to yet greater corruption and undermining of any spiritual authority the Church may have wielded. By the 14th century John Wycliffe (1328-1384) in England was the first of many Catholic priests to question the privileged caste of the clergy, and the luxury they lived in. Next was Hus, preceded by Wycliffe (25/50yrs), and leading to Luther (50/75yrs later).

Jan Hus was burned at the stake for questioning the policies of the Church in 1415. He was asked to recant before the fire was lit, and denied “he had done nothing more than preached the Gospel as intended”. The people of Bohemia, in their rage openly moved from the Papal teachings, incited victorious armed action, and repelled the Roman Catholic Crusades three times. At the Council of Basel (The Basel Compacts), the Catholic Church officially allowed Bohemia to practice Hussitism – a century later, beyond Luther an estimated 90% of the Czech Crown Lands practiced the teachings of Jan Hus; whether his teachings had any lasting impact on Slovakia is still being debated, and the real strength of religion to change our society comes with Luther… as we shall see.

In our next History Corner we will begin to look at how the Enlightenment came about, the ideas and actions that arose as a result, and more importantly I aim to open up the Late High Ages to the show how our Slovaks are faring. It has been more than 500 years since the Magyars co-opted (or colonized) the Slovaks, and this period until WWI has been my focus for many years. I truly believe that the period following the Enlightenment were in actuality the formative years of Slovakia as nation; if only in hearts and minds. The Enlightenment is the turning point in the history of Western Europe; a stone that causes the still water of man’s thinking to send ripples across the entire globe.

I thank each and every one of you for taking a few moments to read these dispatches. I ask only that you take care of yourselves, and take care of each other until the next time we see other.

Slovakia On My Mind

Bratislavsky Hrad (Bratislava Castle) from the south bank of the Danube

It’s Sunday, 23 July and I’m exploring another avenue to attain a visa. I am going to apply for a “D Visa”. It is a visa granted by the Office of Foreign Police (OFP) here in Slovakia. Although not custom-made for me, I fall into its parameters. I am retired, and spending my time researching our history, under the aegis of Prof. Homza; we are hoping this will be enough to satisfy the only other body that will issue visas here in Slovakia. The one thing we learned at the Ministry of Interior a couple weeks back, is that the fact that I have my own health insurance and a steady income will go a long way to convince the OFP that I am an asset, and not a liability. So we are retooling my “new application” for a visa. One of the aspects of a “D Visa” is that I am engaging in study. I meet with Prof. Homza regarding this aspect of the visa. He often tells me that I am doing a greater service than he when I blog honestly about my life here in Slovensko… I just have to chuckle.

I have made my choice of language schools and will then enroll for the start of September. The SSL (Slovak/Second Language) that I opted for meets on Sunday nights for 2 hours, and will last until early November. A humorous part of living here and trying to learn the language is that most want to speak English with me. I defer to what little Slovak that I do know… mostly greetings, farewells, and day-to-day small talk. I am beginning to hear it a little better though; that is my biggest sticking point. Overall, I really don’t believe that I could have chosen a better place to retire. At the risk of shining a poor light on the US, it is safer, far less expensive, and for me personally Europe is just beyond my doorstep. I get out most early mornings on my bike, before the day’s heat lays in, which is usually by 10 in the morning. Having my bike here has really helped me get in a bit better shape; my hip seems to be responding to the pedaling, and I have “gotten lost” on a few occasions.

Bratislava is really a small town, in fact its motto is “Little Big Town”. There is always something going on in the countless namesties (literally “town squares”), and the Old Town is really humming now. You can hear a vast amount of languages spoken if you listen. I am fortunate to have been included in a few groups, and meeting friends for Kava (Coffee) is a daily event; usually after 16:00 (4pm) or so when the heat begins to subside. It is already habit now to shop early or later in the day, and stay in my cooler apartment through the crux of the day. I am happy to sit and read/write, jump in to help Vlad with preparing the apartments for guests, and stay in touch with all of my friends – both here and back in the US…allowing for the 7+ hour distance.

Tonight I met my good friend Kirill at Cafe Scherz for the Jazz Jam. I was early, and while I waited for my kava to be ready I talked to Juraj the bass palyer. He is also the bass player in the Blues band that Kirill, plays in and the one that I sat in with afew Saturday’s ago. We talked about improving as musicians, his words of bravo for my playing were encouraging considering the fact that I haven’t sat behind a kit in nearly 2 years. He described it as “muscular”, and I laughed…he assured me that he meant it as a compliment. It made me feel good. Kirill arrived and we sat out in the cool of the patio, still able to hear the jazz from inside and able to talk without shouting for once. It was so much fun as we discussed our likes and dislikes about modern music, as well as the music that mattered to us, and our influences as well. We are on the same page and he promised that I will be able to sit in on their next practice. Talking to Juraj earlier, he mentioned that there is a shortage of drummers in Bratislava, and a real problem getting any to show up for a gig; as it turned out they played as a trio instead of a quartet as a result. Gabriel on keys (he’s a Buddhist too), and Milo on Sax. In the end, I had a warm feeling riding home on my bike, and not just from the muggy early evening heat.

The odd thing about the weather here in Bratislava is the fact that the humidity is very low, compared to Chicago, sometimes the mid-30% during the day…but it soars after dark into the 70+ percentile. I seem to think that it has to be some “heat island” effect from being in the city. I know it’s hot everywhere, but to me it’s not as bad as what I wasn’t use to in Chicago. Note: I am finishing this post after my morning ride (Monday 24, July) and it is 84% humidity…dropping to 34% by 3pm this afternoon. By forecast, today is our last in the 30’sC (33C/91F), and will drop to 22C (71F) tomorrow before climbing back to 30C (86F) by the weekend… not bad.

THE HISTORY CORNER

It’s the 13th century and the Mongols have come west from the Eastern Steppe, conquering Volga Bulgaria, states of modern-day Iran, and continued with small principlalities on the edge of Eastern Europe. The ensuing carnage would be far greater with the Mongols forces, with one going north to attack the fractued Polish, and the 2nd force heading directly for the young Kingdom of Hungary. This was only the beginning, as invasions were taken into the Caucasus Mountains against the Kingdom of Georgia, and into the Balkans also. The Mongols had crippled the once-powerful Kingdom of Bulgaria, the Kingdom of the Croats, and the “Latin Empire” – the former Byzantine Eastern Roman Catholic Church lands; it would last another 20 years before the Bulgarian-Nicenes could end it there.

At this point, the now-warring princes in Western and Central Europe realized that they had to unite to face the Mongols and expel them. The Hungarians were warned about the Mongols, but at the time King Bela of Hungary was involved in disputes with his nobles and brushed it off believing that they were “too mighty” for any external force to be a threat to his kingdom. The Hungarians are almost two generations removed from their tribal-horse warrior past, and despite advance notice from the Mongols themselves King Bela, in his vanity, believed these to be false lies to unseat him. Bela had been warned as early as 1229; it is 1241/42 now. In 1241 the Polish princes sent a message to Bela, by then the Mongols were turned away in Bohemia and Moravia. The Mongols appeared on the eastern border of Hungary, as well the north, and Bela fled. The Golden Horde chased Bela into the Balkans. In the end the grandsons of Genghis Khan (common spelling), Batu Khan and Subutai Khan ran out of steam.

In their drive westward, the Mongols were faced with battle strategies that they were either unfamiliar with, or unprepared for. The reasons are varied, and some plausible; the Mongols ran into siege situations, as well as hand-to-hand fighting with heavy cavalry, and ultimately teaching the Hungarians the value of fortresses and castles in their borderlands and inside of the kingdom also. I have noticed from my own visits to our many castles and forts, the difference between the pre-Mongol and post-Mongol construction. The inclusion of parapets, stouter outer walls, and curtain walls (protected inner walls in which the “bailey” sits). By late 1242 the Mongol invasion of Central Europe had stalled and together with the military and other factors such as a “climate event” in Europe, as well as the death of their father Ogedei, the brothers returned to Inner Mongolia to tend to the aftermath of internecine wars of succession in which they faced off against each other. As is always the case with any given event in history, there is not one occurence to evince an outcome of an event.

The aftermath of the 1st Mongol invasion sees a population loss of at least 30/40% (a conservative estimate) and a freak change in climate would herald a “descending famine” that worsened over several years dragging the suffering into the last half of the 13th century. The Mongols returned in what is termed as “the 2nd invasion of Central Europe”, in the 1280’s and wreaked havoc on a greater scale than any they carried out some 40 years earlier. By the mid-14th century, the tide was turning against the Mongols as several European kingdoms advanced incursions to take back territories captured by the Mongols and reclaim them for their own. Internal strife within the Golden Horde was one factor that aided in Central Europe in their quest to get rid of the Mongols. Again there are many varied factors that led to the Mongols slowly retreating eastward and Europe gaining some sort of peace. At this point in the High Middle Ages, the Hungarians begin to welcome incoming Germans and Jews to embark on building up towns (via the “charter system”), strengthening trade, and cultivating a burgeoning artistic period. It’s worth a mention that the immigrants were able to garner the most power, and this led to conflict with local Slovaks. Louis I is forced to issue the proclamation “Privilegium Pribius”- literally “privilege for the Slovaks” in 1381. The Slovaks were given half the seats in the Zilina town council, and to this day Zilina in the north is still a major center of the Slovak Republic. We all must remember that this is a time of tremendous suffering. The plagues have begun with the Black Death remaining in both Western and Central Europoe, peasant revolts are a common occurence, and the entire population is in distress from climate anomalies… history repeats itself.

In the next History Corner, we will look at the High Middle Ages, King Matthias, and the Protestant challenge to the vast power of the Catholic Church. I thank all of you for taking the time to read my post. I’m happy to share what I have been learning about this largely unknown history of Slovakia, and the resolve of the Slovaks to retain their culture through the years in spite of the Hungarian heavy-handedness in dealing with them. Take care of yourselves, and please take of each other.

Breathing New Life Into An Old Story

Our new Baby, Colson Robert Adams with his Big Brother Mason (photo: Laura Antonaglia)

The news of the birth of my Great-Nephew on 29 July (the day of my last post) bolstered my sense of all that is good in this world. As I have mentioned, I have been in the process of applying for a visa, and it has been quite the struggle. Colson’s entry into this life of mine has added a happy tone to my trial here. This new member of the family has given some welcomed news to me, even being so far away from him. Welcome Cole!

I have waited to post this blog until after my visit to The Ministry of Interior on Monday past (10 July). Vlad and I arrived at 9:30, and were placed 19th in line. Owing to the fact that they open at 9, we couldn’t believe it. The security guard let us know that we would most likely not be seen until after 11. Since Vlad was leaving for Croatia later in the evening, and he had some matters to attend to he left. He decided to return by 11. I was still sweating from the early morning ride up Castle Hill, clad in jeans and a dress shirt, I decided to sit tight and just wait. I found a nice place to sit in a shaded garden and tried to relax. I could barely hear the traffic out on Palisady, since the birds were in full song here in this green and breezy oasis.

The past month began to sift down through the trilling, and the breeze was a welcomed comfort. Mulling over the rushing around to get documents put through the “apostille” process, and trying to stay up with the work on Vlad’s Airbnb apartments. I give him a hand preparing the various apartments he has for rent in Airbnb, and when he goes away, I check guests in and out. It gives him a peace of mind, and I get a chance to meet people from all over the world. As I played the days June through my head, rolling images like movie cels passing by in quick succession… days reading and writing, nights out with my growing group of friends, sitting in for a song or two at the Blues Jams (most recently this past Saturday), and slowly beginning to hear the Slovak that is spoken to me; all of this together makes me more determined to stay.

Vlad returned at nearly 11, and we were summoned at 11:15, perfect timing. In the end the documents didn’t show the direct line from my Grandparents, through my Father, and on to me. They wanted to see that my Grandparents were distinctly “Slovaks”. There had to be a document that specifically said “Slovak” next to their names, and this was not found on their baptismal record, it would seem that a certificate from Ellis Island would be sufficient to show that they were Slovaks that spoke Slovak. The other sticking point was my Father’s own birth record from Cook County in which our last name is far from correct, and it has my Granparents as citizens of Poland….not even close. This may have swayed them in my favor. The lady interviewer was impressed with the fact that Professor Homza wrote a Letter of Recommendation that made me sound like some Slovak-history superstar from the US. She also liked the fact that I had my own income and health insurance. Vlad and I agreed that perhaps I will apply for just a regular visa, and forget the “Slovaks Living Abroad Visa” as far too involved, and with to many moving parts. We returned home to Grosslingova, I took a cool shower and relaxed; Vlad took a nap since he was leaving at 9pm to drive overnight for their annual vacation to Croatia.

A word of caution for those who may be reading this blog in relation to the Slovak visa process; it is more difficult than the website makes it out to be. Nonetheless, I returned to my daily research and even went shopping later in the afternoon, after it cooled down to 28C (82F), and I met some friends in the Old Town for dinner. I will speak to Vlad’s best friend Michal, a lawyer who has been helping with this process, and we will take a different tack when he comes home next week. I was in a bit of a funk for a few hours, but I am resolved to find a way to stay. My Slovak Language lessons will begin in early August, and it will go along way to aid in my remaining here.

THE HISTORY CORNER

We were in the mid-Middle Ages where we left off with Great Moravia, Rastislav, and his sons. The turn of the 10th century finds with the Magyars (Hungarians/ Interchangeable) beaten by another Eastern tribe, the Pechenegs, and they began to move west into the Pannonian Basin from east of the Carpathians. They settled there, and they were enlisted by local rulers in the region, this may have contributed to the decline and fall of Great Moravia. In 907, the Bavarian armies were raised by the Franconian (German) ruler to quell the rising power of the Magyars, and were promptly defeated by the Magyars. Most historians generally agree on htis date as the end of Great Moravia; it only makes sense due to Rastislav’s power was built with the aegis of the Germanic kings and dukes.

[notas ex historia]… Great Moravia left behind an indelible and lasting legacy; the Glagolitic Alphabet created a cardinal point for linguistic, cultural, and ecclesiastic development of the burgeoning Slavic societies. One of the clues that archaeologists look for are ancient graves. During the 10th century, there was a mixing of Magyar and Slovak graves in the south of modern-day Slovakia on the Pannonian Plain. As I have mentioned, Proffessor Martin Homza, in his outstanding series on Youtube, highlights that both cultures co-existed, until some time later when the Magyar graves would disappear as the markers diminished in the territories of the Slovaks.

In 955 the Magyars engaged in a military expedition against the German King Otto I “The Great”, and were completely decimated. They had small victories against the Germans, including a siege on Augsburg, and a surprised attack versus the Duchy of Bohemia. The Hungarians/Magyars stopped to plunder a German camp, a fatal mistake and were beaten by the heavy cavalry of the Duke of Lorraine. Otto did not pursue the Magyars, but sent out word to keep them from crossing rivers to get to their homeland. It was a result of the Battle of Lech (Lechfield Plain) that the Magyars would be hunted down by the Bavarians, slowed or stopped by heavy rainfall, and be killed en masse. Not only did this single battle preserve the Kingdom of Germany, but more significantly this would put an end to the nomadic incursions into Western Europe for good.

Perhaps the Hungarians saw the defeat at Lech as a sign to settle down, and did so in the center of the Carpathian Valley (Pannonian Plain). They annexed the modern-day Slovakian territories, adopted Christianity, and began to form the Kingdom of Hungary. In the 11th century Boleslaus of Poland conquered Slovakia (1001/1002 & 1018/1029), Hungary acquired the territory again, and though they set up small polities (politically organized units), by 1110 in the 12th century they were no longer in existence, and after this moment in time until 1918 Slovakia (and the Slovaks) were an integral part of Hungary.

I believe that the Slovaks persevered because of who they are. People who work hard, are focused on family and God, and keep a positive outlook on life. When I first began to study the history of Slovakia many years ago, a sense of dread filled me when I read about this period, and I began to tender a severe dislike for Hungary; especially upon discovering the many ways they kept the Slovaks under their thumb. In the process of understanding history I saw how this is not isolated, but a part of how empires kept power, and fostered the future. Over time the Slovaks would be relegated to 2nd or 3rd class citizens of the realm. We will see a great influx of people from other cultures to grow the Kingdom into a regional economic and political power. For more than 800 years, the Hungarians kept the Slovaks under a veil. If one were to look at the Kingdom of Hungary overall, you will see that the Slovaks were not alone in the mistreatment by the Hungarians. In the next History Corner, we will cover the Mongol invasion in the 1240’s, and what it meant for the Slovaks… and the Kingdom of Hungary at large.

It has been a bit of a trial the last few weeks, and I am grateful to share it with to anyone coming to my blog. I appreciate the time you have taken to read my dispatches from Central Europe, and want to thank you from my heart. Until I post again, please take care of yourselves, and take care of each other…we’re all we have in this world.

Getting The First Thing Right

With Tician at Suhaj (Shoo-hai) Bike Shop. Thank you to Jeff Pediscalzi and John Mican for all of their help in making this moment possible.

The biggest news is the completion of my bike. It seems that this is the one thing going right so far. It has been an incredible struggle to get all of my documents up to par for the agencies involved in granting my visa. I once calculated that it would have cost me nearly $3,000 dollars to attain the visa from the US. In one way or another I have spent that in time, and aggravation. Were it not for my landlord, “semi-legal consel”, and good friend it would not happen and my dream of living in Slovakia would be quashed. I am in debt to Terry Vaidik, a complete stranger with whom I was connected through a former contact at George Roll. Terry has been the driving force in attaining a letter of recommendation from the Slovak Club of Merrillville (Indiana); he has been eager, accommodating, and indispensable… I am sure he will be mentioned again. I will revisit this subject in detail after it is affirmed that I have the visa and I can stay.

I picked up my bike yesterday June 28th from the bike shop, where Tician (the Slovak form of the Italian Renaissance painter) re-assembled it from the shipping box, and lovingly restored it to its original form. We added a couple updates. It rides like the first time I was on it in 1979. I went directly to the Danube Trail and pedalled easily westward into the sun for a half-hour. It was an exhilarating sense of release to have the physical exercise, and the movement. Bratislava is a “bike town” and I am looking forward to exploring even greater distances than can be reached on foot, and hoping someday soon to be able to make the ride to Vienna. As it is now, I will have to get my bottom used to sitting on the seat, and it is not happy this morning; a little at a time. I returned to Stary Mesto and dismounted to walk my bike as I headed to Dolnozemska krcma for a celebratory cup of coffee. It is one of favorite places to sit in the Old Town. I am in the second block from St. Martins Cathedral on Palace Row. As I may have explained in a previous blog, this is where the nobility and upper gentry lived in Bratislava – especially during the period 1563 to 1830 when just down the row was St. Martin’s Cathedral. In this nearly 270-year span, the cathedral was the coronation site for the Kingdom of Hungary. The most important in ranking lived in the first block next to the cathedral…and so forth.

I was digging the looks I was getting from the other cyclists as I walked to the krcma (pronounced: “kerch-ma” for tavern or pub…sorry, no diacriticals on my keyboard). While I was sitting having my cup of coffee, a cyclist in full regalia came up and asked if it was mine. I replied that it was, and he marvelled at it constantly saying “this is a classic!”. I humbly thanked him and he rode away shaking his head. I walk my bike while in the crowded lanes of the Old Town; seeing people tear through on bike and e-scooters makes my heart race. There is rarely a time without people strolling obvious to their surroundings, many times stopping right in front of me while I am behind them, and me reacting like a football player to make a deke move to get by without running into them. There are also families with little kids running loose in every direction. I would never forgive myself if I hit one of them.

My ride back to my apartment was cut in a third of the time it takes to walk from the Old Town. Normally a 15/20 minute walk, I was home before I knew it. It will be a perfect 25C (77F) here today and I plan on getting out to at least ride a bit of the trail along the Danube, stopping at times to give my ass a rest. Our days have been very nice with low humidity, although we had a spell of 33C (91F) days last week, a nice fast-moving thunder storm blew it all out. Summer isn’t over yet, by a long shot, and we will have our share of hot days. So, I have fulfilled one dream, to ride my 1979 Raleigh Super Course on the streets of Europe. Now I face the daunting task of getting my visa to remain here in land of my ancestors, and to complete the larger dream.

THE HISTORY CORNER

The turn of the 9th century reveals the Hungarians already having launched several raids into Great Moravia and Nitra. There is a great deal of conjecture regarding Nitra. Historians have long been at odds over its existence as a separate entity from Svatopluk’s Great Moravia, or a Duchy of Mojmir II (Svatopluk’s son and heir) following the death of Svatopluk “The King of Slavs”. The area that encompassed Great Moravia (and Nitra – whatever its status by historians) was staggering. From modern-day Czech Republic, to Slovakia and Hungary, Austria, Germany, Poland, Romania, Serbia, Croatia, and the Ukraine. Only Samo’s empire in Central Europe covered any significant territory. It should be noted that Samo ruled over more of a “union of tribes” than an actual empire.

Occurring prior and amid this time, interwoven in this story is the gathering strength of the Hungarians. In the early 890’s Arnulf of Franconia invaded unsuccessfully against Svatopluk, and was rebuffed twice (890 &892). What is significant is that the Hungarians were supporting Arnulf, and it illustrates their growing power as not only a military force, but as a political entity as well. An even greater indicator for me of the future of my beloved Slovaks is the loss of the influence of Methodius; an Archbishop prior to his passing in 885. The Frankish clergy still opposed the growing culture of the Glagolitic liturgy, and succeeded in convincing Pope Stephen V to restrict the use of Old Church Slavonic in liturgy. Bishop Wiching was the nemesis of Cyril and Methodius, as well as counsel to Svatopluk, and it is he who led the denial of Methodius. Wiching was more power-hungry than ecclesastic, switching allegiance from Svatopluk to Arnulf and the Franks as it suited his quest for power. Upon the death of Methodius, Wiching persuaded Svatopluk to expel the disciples of Methodius fro Moravia. Thus in one vindictive act, the entire future of any cultural or literary growth was gone. It would be nearly 1,000 years before the Slovaks would develop a literary language of their own.

One of my many beliefs is that “history is recorded as the annal of the action or inaction of men”. As we travel on through the Slovak past, I will raise this specter often. The instance with Bishop Wiching is merely one in a thousand examples of men influencing future history by an act of self-interest. It may reflect the resolve of Svatopluk at the time, too busy spinning plates to contemplate the outcome of his inaction. Let us just set the lack of forward thinking aside for the time being…this is the Middle Ages after all. Any short discourse on how to look at history as I see it will wait. The 10th century will dawn in the next “History Corner” and we shall see the Slovaks enter the next millenium.

I am grateful to those who take the time to read these short missives from Central Europe. Thank you to those who are following in email, were directed by an inquiry, and anyone interested in my travel and travail away from family and friends. I appreciate any comments. Until we meet again, please take care yourselves, and take care of each other

Topics in Cafes and Eateries

It was once said that “small minds discuss people, average minds discuss events, and great minds discuss ideas”. This quote is often cited as an Eleanor Roosevelt-ism. I am extremely fortunate to have friends here that don’t find my need to discuss ideas as tiring. It seems as though I learn so much more in this manner than four or five hours of research. I was out with my friend Ildar last Thursday evening and our topics varied, always returning to ideas, history, politics, or business. A prior outing with my good pal Daniel revealed this tendency as well. Scattered through these conversations are questions about family, growing up in our hometowns, and our journeys up to this point. Over the course of the evening, dinner, some drinks, and coffee we cover a vast territory of ideas and concepts. There is no stone that remains unturned during these winding conversations. Also included is a near-constant bombardment of book references and global perspectives that I hadn’t been exposed to. I find it refreshing, and understand it to be part and parcel to my journey, greater awakening, and in the end – the reason why I made this move to Slovakia.

On the evenings when I stay in, Vlad pops by after he puts the kids to sleep, and our conversations can be revelatory for me. All of the conversations that I am involved in make me realize that I still have so very much to learn about this world…quoth Socrates – “all I know, is that I know nothing”. I am aware that of all the things to truly know, and I merely want to know myself more clearly. There are friends in the rest of Europe that I have yet to visit, and based on our time together, I look forward to more of the same.

Bratislavsky Hrad (Bratislava Castle) as seen from the Danube. Part of my ill-fated trip to Devin Castle.

St. Martin’s Cathedral as seen from the boat on the Danube. A guard house from the Castle is visible on the upper left.

On Thursday morning last week I had a plan to take a boat up the Danube to see Devin Castle. The castle, in ruins – thanks Napoleon! – is one the oldest sites of continuous fortification in Slovakia, and it is considered a national treasure. My visit wasn’t meant to be; the gods did not smile on me. Our boat experienced engine problems not far from our destination, and we were forced to turn back to the dock. I received a refund, and decided to put the trip off until the school year was up. Our boat was filled with numerous class trips and it was not very enjoyable as we motored up the river. I may even bike to it, as it is only 6 miles (10km) from Bratislava. I thought it would be nice to take the trip by boat. Hopefully it will be a nicer trip in midsummer when there will no schoolkids running and jumping about. Apologies for sounding like an old curmudgeon.

Summer is in full-tilt here and the squares of the Stare Mesto are crammed with groups of tourists milling about, stages with bands playing music (everthing from symphonic, to folk, and modern jazz), and people enjoying scene. As I have mentioned many times prior, the Slovaks are an “outside culture”, the namesties (town squares) are movement personified; kids running around, couples pushing prams, and tables jutting out into the space with folks eating and drinking. I have a favorite krcma ( krurch-ma/pub) that I love to sit and write at. The coffee is superb, as well as the menu; they also serve Hooegaarden Weiss, and I can sit for quite a while writing, drinking coffee, have a Hoeegaarden, and just watch the never-ending parade of people as they come down Palace Row. It is in the 2nd block of old palaces, so it was the home of 2nd-tier nobility during the coronations that took place at St. Martin’s Cathedral… two blocks away. They amount to big apartment buildings with ornate facades. Since I have decided to have a beer from time to time, giving up my sobriety to really enjoy this “culture of moderation” (none of my friends “pound beers”, and if we meet it may be one and on to tea/coffee/water), the Hooegaarden Weiss has become my favorite. It goes well with a meal because it’s very light, and coffee sits on top of it nicely. I am conscious not to make a habit out of it, preferring to drink sparkling water/coffee most times. My waiters and waitresses at Dolnozemska Krcma are good kids and know what I’m doing…it works out well.

Looking up Palace Row from Dolnozemska Krcma. The spire of St. Martin’s looms high in the background.

On Thursday night last, Ildar and I sat at Dolnozemska for almost 3 1/2 hours before realizing the time. We hatched a plan for me to go to his hometown of Chelyabinsk, in Tatarstan ( a federated republic in Russia), and then on to Kazan – its capital. Chelyabinsk sits on the south-eastern flank of the Ural Mountains, which extend from the Kara Sea in the north to Kazahkstan in the south, and it is generally considered to be where Europe ends and Asia starts. It would fulfill a life-long dream to stand on the Steppe and see where our history rode through on its march west. All of this is dependent on what happens between Ukraine and Russia. As it stands, we would have to fly from Vienna to Turkey, and then back up to Kazan. My other outlying hope is to see the old Silk Road, which lies further south in Asia. Maybe someday….

As it stands, I am very happy to be here in Slovakia, wander the streets of Stare Mesto, reading the doorposts, interpreting Latin and trying to get a better idea of what happened here for centuries. Visiting with friends is a daily occurrence, and I am waiting patiently for my bicycle to be finished. My mechanic Titian (like the Italian painter) is very keen on restoring it to its original 1979/80 form, and the parts are a slow-go. As I am posting this on Monday, 19 June, the highlight of my weekend was getting to talk to my family from the US. Also, I went to Ildar’s to watch the Formula One race from Canada last evening. Because it was in a time zone “behind” us, we met at 7pm, and he insisted on cooking a meal and for me eat with him. Always the food and drink! I really love this culture. As always, we had great fun, and cheered on our favorite drivers while jabbing each other in jest. He has become a favorite of mine, and there is always so much to share and learn for me.

At Ildar’s, with the post-race on in the background (photo: Ildar Bagautdinov)

I don’t know of a better, brighter smile! (photo: Ildar Bagautdinov)

THE HISTORY CORNER

We last saw Rastislav in Great Moravia in 855, and from 858 until 863 he was involved in intrigue and war against him. Once he settled into a somewhat peaceful period, he decided to rid himself of Frankish influence once and for all. Frankish priests were still working in Great Moravia and Rastislav turned to Rome for teachers who could educate local priests. There was no response from Nicholas I in Rome; this was a big mistake as it could have been a historic opportunity to establish the Roman Catholic Church in East Central Europe many years ahead of time. As a result of Rome’s snub, it was suggested by Byzantine clergy who were active in Great Moravia for some time, to request the same from Michael III the then-emperor of Byzantium. As the Eastern Schism of the Catholic Church was beginning, Michael III was all too happy to seize the moment for the Orthodox Church, and sent the missionary brothers Cyril and Methodius. Rastislav was beseiged by Louis II (Ludovit Nemec) in Devin Castle, it came to a stalemate as Louis was not able to overcome either the castle nor the fact that he and his Franconian army were outnumbered. Devin Castle (Devinsky Hrad) was outside of present-day Bratislava where the Morava River flows into the Danube. The Morava served as a natural divider between the kingdoms (the Franks and Great Moravia), as it does today forming the border of the Slovak and Czech Republics…respectively. Louis called Devin “the unspeakable fortress”, and this also marks the first outright mention of Devin in the area of present-day Bratislava.

Rastislav and Louis compromised, as Louis would withdraw, and not attack Great Moravia, and Rastislav swore his loyalty to Louis – doing so in order to allow Cyril and Methodius to evangelize the Slavs. In 867 Rastislav gave the eastern half of Great Moravia to his nephew Svatopluk, it would become the Principality of Nitra, and we will see it rise to become a force in Slovak history. Cyril and Methodius, in the meantime, set about devising the Glagolitic Alphabet; it became the first alphabet in use to transcribe Old Church Slavonic, and denotes the birth of the very beginnings of Slavic literary language. The brothers reconstructed the Proto-Slavic ancestry from which all Slavic language is derived. It is impotant to point out that some Eastern Orthodox and Eastern Catholic churches use later Old Church Slovanic in liturgy to this day. It is long thought that Cyril and Methodius translated the Latin Bible using Slavic dialects that were spoken in the outlands of their home of Thessaloniki in modern Greece.

The period of Great Moravia and the Principality of Nitra is decisively the very first notions of statehood, and the solid foundations of a noteworthy body politic in Slovakia. Rastislav in his far-reaching vision, built and organized a sovereign state, retained a lasting legacy of religious and academic learning apart form the Franks, and left an empire that his nephew Svatopluk would enlarge in the coming years. Cyril and Methodius installed Slavic as a liturgical language with the “big three” at the time: Latin, Hebrew, and Greek. What was left behind by Ss. Cyril and Methodius, is a rich and vast heritage that spans time, empires, and influences people and events to modern-day. They are more than worth a short inquiry, and I for one have gained a bit clearer insight into this region and its cultures. In our next visit to “The History Corner” all eyes will be on Nitra.

A humble and grateful thank you to those who have stopped by, get this blog via email, or found it in a search. I appreciate the time you took to look at my post. I wish you all well, and until the next time… take care of yourselves, and take care of each other

Changes Afoot In Central Europe

Michalska Brana (Michael’s Gate) rises beyond a square in the Old Town. It is the last remaining of the 4 gates of the Old Town (Stare Mesto)

My dream of retiring here in Slovakia has gotten one step closer to becoming a reality. My FBI background check finally arrived by mail from the US… a 4 week journey. It is the single-most important document required for my visa application. Among all of the birth certificates; my Grandfather,Grandmother, my Father, and my own… this background check is the linchpin. I have Letters of Recommendation coming from Slovak Clubs in NW/Indiana (Thank you Terry Vaidik), as well a letter from Prof. Homza here in Slovakia. I am excited to say that we will be filing this week, and that means that I won’t have to pack and run out of here at the end of the month. Just as importantly, I am digging myself out of the financial foxhole from stay in the US this past winter. The sense of comfort that I have here is hard to describe. From the issues of healthcare, to food and travel I believe I made the right choice to retire here.

Thankfully, I have a nice circle of friends that freely discuss ideas with me, and it is refreshing to get “non-Western” reponses to my queries. To have my landlord as my best friend and confidant is a major stroke of luck. I am learning the ins and outs of this culture in leaps and bounds. I am happy to set aside time to help him with the small projects that he has here at the building we live in. I keeps me as active as I could possibly ask for. Being able to ride my bike in the coming days will only add to a more energetic lifestyle. My guy Titian (like the Renaissance painter), is restoring the bike to its 1979 quality, and it is taking some time. It’s okay; I live in a European mind-set now and have learned to shed off my US “sense of urgency” to most matters such as this.

One of my favorite pasttimes is to wander through the Stare Mesto (Old Town) and attempt to read the inscriptions on the the posts and lintels of the structures. Virtually all of them are in Latin, some in German, and a few in Hungarian; I haven’t found one in Slovak yet. Professor Homza draws this corelation to Latin America; he calls it “Latin Slovakia” in his own humorous manner. This highlights the fact that for ages Latin was the official language of empires and reigning administrations. For me, this is where my education starts. While travel to a variety of places here in Europe have been quite enlightening, I return here to Bratislava with an amazement that borders on gawking. While moving through the history, I am sure that my ancestors were not filled with my wonder. I’m convinced they were more concerned with their day-to-day survival. It would be a stretch to say they spoke in Latin, even though it was the “Lingua franca” of their day, I am convinced they spoke a local dialect of Slovak, directed or connected to the liturgy, and handed down from Cyril and Methodius’ Glagolitic interpretation of the Latin-based bible in the 9th century.

On the language; it can be a bit humbling and frustrating for me. All of my friends can speak at least two languages alongside English. I push to speak and hear Slovak, yet they want to converse in English. So, I am humbled by the fact that I never had instruction in another language and they utter another like it’s nothing. I stopped beating myself up over being so narrow-minded for so long. The language will come, I know it, and I have to be patient and give myself space to let it sink in.

The History Corner

We visited Samo’s empire last, and the Frankish merchant – “Slavic King’ (latin: Rex Sclavorum) was responsible for being the first to unite the Slavic tribes. His reign was short-lived at 35 years, reached into only a small portion of future-Slovakia, and yet set a precedent by building key alliances among the Germanic west and the Slavs in the central-east. Samo also established and maintained elaborate long-distance trade relationships. Both aforementioned factors are key to building empires; at some point we will see excerpts of my papers…”Empires On The Way Up” and “Empires On The Way Down”, respectively. Samo’s intermarriage with Wendish noblewomen (it is said at least 12), aided in his capital as a ruler. The Wends were Slavic-speakers that dwelled on the edge of the Germanic settlements. This refers to a group, or tribe, and not necessarily people with a homogenous make up; mostly West or South Slavs within the Holy Roman Empire.

With the fall of Samo in the middle of the 7th century, Slovakia hangs in a stasis until the early 8th century when Pribilina comes to the fore and establishes the Pricipality of Nitra. [Note: I will use the term “Slovakia” to refer to the modern-day integrated territory we know] In Nitra was the first consecrated Christian church in 828, and in 833 Nitra was combined with nearby Moravia (an eastern region of the now-Czech Republic) to form the Great Moravia. It would appear that Pribina was a vassal of the Moravians and thus Mojmir I (Moy-meer) usurped Nitra and formed Great Moravia; much of this is debated among scholars. Still, this a tumultuous in all of Europe; the heirs of Charlemagne are waging war against each other, and anyone allied against them. The empire-building going on in the Slovak sphere was not a single entity. Any accumulation of wealth or power, does not go unnoticed, nor does it occur without the aegis of someone more powerful. Mojmir wanted to secede from the Franks, as they were the strength behind his throne. The king of the East Franks, Louis the German (grandson of Charlemagne), was not happy about this threat to his holding in the East, and Mojmir I was either killed or fled. Louis assisted (installed) Mojmir’s nephew Rastislav in acquiring the throne. Amity doesn’t last long in this period, and Rastislav, hoping to weaken the influence of the Frankish priests in his kingdom, ousts them, and then repels an attack by the Franks in 855. This sets us up for the appearance of Cyril and Methodius in the next “History Corner”.

I appreciate all who are following me on my journey of discovery, both within and without, and I am thankful for your time. Please feel free to comment. Until my next post, please take care of yourselves, and take care of each other.

Outing In The Tatras…In More Ways Than One

At the 1st Cable Car Station. Lomnicky Stit is just over my head.
(Photo: Vlad Sveda)

Vlad and I had been talking about a get-away to his family’s place in the Tatra Mountains since I arrived here in Slovakia. We decided that this past weekend would be perfect for it. Along with our good friend Ildar, and his son Kristof, we left later on Friday 2 June and returned on the following Sunday. Due to obligations on his part and Kristof’s after-school activities, we left on the 3 1/2 ride in the early evening. The ride wasn’t as long as it sounds. Kristof (Kreesh-tof…sorry no diacriticals) fell asleep very quickly in the back seat and we talked between the three of us for most of the trip. Ildar drove his his boss’s car and we sat in the front, talking and getting to know each other a bit more.

We stayed up and talked after our arrival, drinking a couple beers and eating. I had a beer, and didn’t really think anything of it. I let 23 years of sobriety go away just like that. I’m not sure where I’m going from here; I liked it, and the way that I have seen my friends drink here appeals to me. I may not have another, and start all over again, or I may attempt to drink moderately – I will wait and see. The most important thing is that I will not hide it from my family and friends. Upon my arrival at home on Sunday evening I called some family to let them know what I did. I followed that up with a few calls on Monday. The funny (odd) thing is that I don’t feel any remorse or guilt. The guys didn’t force me into it and as I said it felt natural. I will see what transpires from here.

Moving on, we hatched a plan for Saturday to hike up toward Lomnicky Stit (Lomneetski Shteet) and enjoy the gorgeous mountain setting. Lomnicky Stit is the 2nd highest peak in the range at 2,633m (8,638f); only Gerlachovsky Stit is higher at 2654m. Lomnicky Stit can be considered comparable to Aspen or Vail in the US… very wealthy, very popular, and with its steep slopes – challenging. We took a short walk to the grocery store on Saturday morning, returned, and Ildar made a great breakfast for our day ahead. I knew going into the hike that either my wind or my hip would be a problem, but I didn’t give it much thought. In the Spring of 2022, while in Theth for the first time, I fell as I was fly-fishing. I banged my right hip on a sharp rock and sustained something beyond a “hip-pointer”, I paid no attention to either issues as we geared up and started out. The sky was a vivid blue and the small patches of snow on the mountainside glistened; shimmering like strands of pearls in the sun’s light. The wind was cool, crisp, and carried the scent of pine and mixed deciduous trees

Ildar, Kristof, and Vlad as we began our hike.

The ascent to Lomnicky is possible by one of two ways. One way is to hike up. The second mode of travel is by cable car. During my first trip here in 2017, my cousin Elena and her husband Gero took me here. We rode the cars up to the peak. I won’t forget it. The view was stunning as you can turn and look into Poland to the north. As we began the hike, I felt my wind (breathing) was strong but not taxing me. I credit a walk up the steps to the castle, two sometimes three times a week. As I progressed up the steeper aspects, my hip began to complain, and I consciously shut it out and kept striding. The views from the open glades reminded me of being in our Tetons. Both ranges are relatively sharp and craggy, with the Tatras being somewhat older. Something awakens within me when I am the mountains, the spirit is refreshed, and I feel “at home” due to my past with the Rocky Mountains in the US. Scrambling at times, and pushing up at others, the pain in my hip became more pronounced. It felt at times as if someone was trying hammer a nail into it. The boys urged me on, and in the end I am glad I fought through the uncomfortable ache and made it to the 1st cable car station. I decided that I was going to stay there, take the weight off of my hip, and just revel in the warm sunshine. The breeze blew cool and crisp; the trade-off was invigorating. Vlad and Kristof stayed with me as Ildar continued up the mountain…he is a beast!

From above us, and below Lomnicky Stit (photo: Ildar Bagautdinov)

Small lake below Lomnicky Stit (Ildar Bagautdinov)

Vlad and I…just chillin’ at the 1st station (photo: Kristof Sveda)

Vlad and Kristof stayed with me, even though they didn’t have to. I kept apologizing for holding them up, but he assured me it was not a problem. I stood up and walked from time to time to keep my hip from getting too stiff, walking on level ground, and kept plenty of water in me as well. Vlad ran into an old law-school mate, and they visited for some time. In the end, Ildar was above us enjoying a beer, a smoke, and the view. He was going to take a car down and meet us at the bottom; I had the same plan. Vlad and Kristof would hike back down, and we met there. After having the group together, we walked back to the house, and cleaned up for dinner. We decided to eat at “Stara Mama” (another way to express Grandmother).

Kristof loves playing catch. Baseball is an anomaly here in Slovakia.

After dinner and a walk through a massive sports car gathering, we retired to our house. We talked about Ildar’s stay in Florida when he was young, growing up in our respective towns, and everything else under the sun. Ildar is from Chelyabinsk in west-central Russia, very close to the Ural Mountains. The region is called Tatarstan, and his descendants are one of the three main groups of Tatars (Volga, Crimean, and Siberian) in Russia. He was surprised that I knew what a “Tatar” was, let alone some of the history surrounding their past. We have become fast friends, and I am grateful to Vlad for introducing us. His stories about his time spent in Miami, Florida… are both amusing and informative. The biggest laughs came from the difference in culture and the use of some of the language peculiar to the south. We are forever “dude” to each other now.

Sunday morning, another incredible breakfast by Ildar; I washed dishes and cleaned up the kitchen(as I had done on Saturday – I had to contribute somehow). We readied a plan to drive east to Strbske Pleso (I’m not going to transliterate, you roll all of the consonants together/ Pleso is a mountain lake formed by glacier), and spend some time there before our drive back to Bratislava.

Ildar remembered this killer restauracia at Strbske Pleso, it was called Monte Mory Cafe and the patio faced out into the valley with the Tatras behind…it was panoramic! We had some beverages, taking in the view and relaxed before a walk to see the sights. Ildar had been here with his parents when they came to visit and wanted us to experience it. Dead on…super! We walked into the resort and the hills combined with my hip made walking on level ground a chore. The boys continued on while I sat (again) on a bench and waited for their return. I was so at peace and ease; it was entirely calming to feel the breeze and watch the clouds dance through the mountain above me. Strbske was the site of the Nordic World Ski Championships in 1970. The two ski-jumping platforms are a major visit there.

The Ski-Jump platforms at Strbske (photo: Ildar Bagautdinov)

We met up after a bit, and I hobbled back to the car, which we left up at Monte Mory Cafe. We drove down to a tradional restauracia for something to eat prior to our drive home. I had the most outstanding Garlic Potato soup in a bread bowl. It was perfect, actually an appetizer, but sat well with me. Our ride home to Grosslingova was effortless, Ildar is a driving machine, and we were home in 3 hours or so. I know that I will see him again soon, and I can’t wait. He has such a good disposition and is always upbeat.

I expect to branch out more as I acquire my visa, but this past weekend will stick with me for quite some time to come. I discovered some aspects about myself that I came to grips with, and am now becoming closer to the culture that I live in. I appreciate everyone for following along on this adventure of a lifetime. I will be picking my bike up from the shop soon, as it had to be re-assembled after being shipped here from the US….another “dream come true”. I always had a hope that I could ride my “classic” 1979 Raleigh Super Course in Europe. Now I am about to do it! I promise to post again soon, and wish you all well. Until then, take care of yourselves, and take care of each other.

The Fantasia…And Tripping Through It

Sunday Evening At Scherz Cafe, with some great players. The Trio is always joined by Internationally-known artists. This Sax player is Milo Suchomel,

Getting to know Bratislava a bit more now, I am exploring yet more and more of what it has to offer. I am not surprised. although it is a small very city as capitals go, Bratislava has a tightly-knit group of artists that support each other. I will usually meet my friend Kirill, who I met at a Blues gig. I stumbled onto them by sheer chance, and began a connection with Kirill. He has introduced me to the players in Bratislava; I can say without doubt that these cats are exceptional. My circle of friends has begun to widen, and it keeps me busy, allowing me to get to know the culture and more importantly, gaining a better grasp of the language. I devote at least 1 to 2 hours a day to learning new words and phrases. My biggest problem is still hearing it. All in all, I can easily say that anytime I am speaking with Slovaks, they are quick to help me…yet happy to speak English also.

My walks will always yield an interesting find, and I remain in awe of the history. While many of my Slovak friends take it in stride, they get a kick out of how much I know, and the fact that I am so into it. This week I am going to take the 26 bus out to Devin Castle, and explore it. The castle is a major historical landmark, and should be much less busy during the middle of the week. As I have mentioned in earlier posts, the Danube cruise season has begun, and the narrow streets in the Stare Mesto (Old Town) can get very congested with the ship’s disgorged passengers wandering about. I have learned (finally!) to have Kava (coffee) later in the day, or earlier in the evening, once they have returned to the boats. My favorite place to go is Dolnozemska. It is in the “second tier” of Palace Row; Ilyia, Lenka, Vicky, and Juraj make the best cup of coffee and pour the best Kofola. I can sit and write, and just take my time. If it’s slow, the kids will chat for a few moments with me… helping with my Slovak and just getting to know each other. Dolnozemska is located in the next block east of St. Martin’s Cathedral. St. Martin’s lies on the western edge of the Stare Mesto. Aside from being one of the oldest churches in Bratislava (begun in 1311/finished in 1452), it is significant for acting as the coronation church for the kingdom of Hungary between 1563 & 1830. The first adjoining block of palaces were for the highest ranking nobles, and then the 2nd block going east the lesser nobility…and so forth. More on that in a later post.

As noted before, I am very close to getting all documents in order for my visa. I am waiting on recommendation letters and the FBI background check. As long as I get the application and associated docs in by the middle of June, there will be no need to run out of Slovakia at the end of the month… when my 90-days-in will have expired. I will be given a document stating that my residency visa is being processed, and therefore able to travel freely in the EU and Schengen. As it stands, I have plans to go to the Tatras with Vlad and his son Kristoff, and also to see my family in Orava. In few more days, I will be riding my bike everywhere. I am looking forward to getting around Bratislava by pedal. It is a super bike-friendly place. Vlad and I have a place set up here in my apartman (apartment/Slovak), and I have secured a couple of long shoe trays to set the bike in, should it get wet…or whatever. If I haven’t stated so; I really love my apartman here, it is roomy, yet small enough to keep clean. I have a washing machine and drying racks, since there are no such things as laundromats here; it is very convenient and easy. This is the manner in which most wash (& dry) their clothes.

I haven’t heard any comments regarding my posts, so I am going to take it upon myself to decide to have a “History Corner” at the end of my blogs. Along with my observations of being someone new to Slovak culture, and living in Europe in general, I am going to include my long-standing practice of trying to explain the history of the Slovaks (as I see it), and the overall history of Central Europe. It seems as though I get a bit heavy-handed with the past in these blogs. For my dear friends of Slovak descent, I think it is important to know more about where their ancestors came from; I truly believe it has been a major ingredient in shaping who I am. It is no secret that I am incredibly proud of my heritage, and I want to reflect that to others with my shared ancesty. We have a history that is second-to-none; I don’t mean that in any “nationalistic” sense – bragging or chest beating – just historically, and culturally long lasting. Despite being under Magyar (Hungarian) rule for nearly 1,000 years, the Slovaks have been able to maintain the structures that underpin so many of the more well-known nationalities of the world. Without any further ado….

History Corner… The Slovaks; Who Are We?

Picking up where I left off in the last post, the Magyars had been preceded by the Avars. The Avars were an amalgamation of many tribes of Eurasian nomads, that overran the Pannonian Basin following the recession of the Huns ( Avars are sometimes reffered to as “Huns” themselves) in the 5th century. They arose from the Pontic-Caspian steppe (remember my “Caspian Conveyor Belt Theory”), and entered onto the historical stage in the mid-6th century, establishing the Avar Khaganate. They had varying degrees of ancestry resembling that of Northeast Asia, notably present-day Mongolia and Manchuria. Most often though, they looked like the average person in the area. The Avars are well-known for invading and ultimately destroying Constantinople from 568 to the 620’s. The Avars also wielded considerable influence on the Slavic migrations to the Balkans, and hired the Slavs as warriors to impose their will on the Pannonian Basin.

During their last siege of Constantinople, the Avars were defeated and thus sent packing from the Pannonian Basin as the Franks began to rise with Samo becoming an “elected” king in 631. He waged war against the Avars after unifying the Slavs, and as a result of his bravery in battle was given the title “Slavic king”. The Franks were a tribe from the lands between the Loire and Rhine valleys, and Samo was a merchant who had gained political power as well as economic strength. After the Fall of Rome, the Franks consolidated power inside and outside of the old Empire. Samo’s empire would extend to modern-day Slovenia in the south, and reached into most of the Czech lands and included but did not contain the Slavs in now-Slovakia. This still a restive period in Central Europe with peace and prosperity still far off. The early Middle Ages will see the Slavs expel the rest of the Avars from the right (south) bank of the Danube and Samo’s empire dissolve after his death.

There is a great deal to tell about this early period of our soon-to-be Slovaks, and I will always try to remain on a linear timeline instead of jumping around. I appreciate everyone you all for following me, and I sincerely hope you are all hale and healthy. Until my next post, please take care of yourselves, and take care of each other.