This past week was a good time for me, I was able to meet my lawyer and develop a strategy for a long stay. Jan wants nothing less than a passport for me… dual citizenship. Also, I had a fun night at Jazztikot with Stephko, Sylvia, and Bobos (bo-bohsh). Also, a few good visits to the Slovak National Gallery (SNG). We had elections for president on Saturday… makes sense right? At this point in my life, and in this place, I have become truly apolitical. But it is interesting to see the “morally-just” right vs. the “corrupt-woke” left still alive even here. While the “more to the right” Robert Fico is Prime Minister, and now the Slovaks have to elect a president. It will come down to the two candidates elected last weekend; a “west-leaning” candidate, and a candidate that is sometimes not clear on his platform. The elections in the US, are a hot topic here, and I have a difficult time convincing the people that I talk to, that (in my opinion) they are two of the worst candidates to have to choose from. Here in east central Europe, the idea of an autocrat (like Trump or Putin) still carries some appeal. I can’t wrap my head around it; another reason why I am apolitical… I don’t want to think about it anymore. I’d rather study the past, it is much more interesting, and less of the “same old – same old” of the present.
In the past three posts, we have looked at Slovakia’s art. We started with its visual art from the Middle Ages, and followed along until the Neo-Classical/Romantic. The intervening two portions were focused on the written form in literature, poetry, and drama. This is my last popst in this series, and I want to end with visual art from the mid-19th century to the 1880’s/90’s. After the turn of the 20th century, the art in Slovakia bursts into the scene of the “modern era”, and they are no longer behind the western waves of creativity… instead right along the top of the crest. We will look at it when we near WWI.
I want to mention again the portrait of Empress Maria Theresa, by Franz Anton Palko (1755-1756). I pointed out in Part I that Palko was a “Baroque” painter, when in fact further research and discussion with an art historian revealed that Palko was part of the “Old Masters” of Austrian art. The “Old Masters” title refers to mostly painters, and is not specific about their style or the movement to which they belong. Generally speaking, this to a wide range of the greatest figures in western art… da Vinci, Caravaggio, Rembrandt, and Durer… to name a few. My best description of Palko’s painting in that post was okayed by an art historian I met at the SNG> It’s nice to know that the art aesthetics courses I had at Columbia College 40 years ago have stuck with me.

I have to include this again because it is so lovely, and the first that draws my eye when I walk into the gallery. Absolutely one of my favorite paintings in the SNG. While he was born in southwestern Poland, Palko did spend some time in Slovakia.
For all of the works that you will see going forward, more “modern”, if you will… there was still Sacred Art being done. But overall, there is much more portraiture that takes place, eventually going from the sittings of the aristocracy, to the “everyday people” in the middle portion of the 19th century. Representative of this style is Johann Rombauer, an “ethnic-German” born in Levoca – wholly “Slovak” in my book. His story is fascinating, if you just Wiki him, his travels alone make for good reading.
This is Rombauer’s Salvador Mundi from early in the 19th century.

From Mundi, you see the growth of Rombauer’s work in 1810 or so to his portrait of noblewoman Thereza Mattyasovszka in 1836. Gone is any hint of the secular, and he paints her in repose, with depth, light and dark, as well as the deeper colors of the flowers in the vase. The fine detail of her dress is also very clear.

As I pointed out earlier, there is a movement afoot during this time to show the struggles of the commoners, heroic depictions, and themes more emblematic of the early Realist period.


In this period of our interest – 1820’s to 1890’s, we begin to see a change in the way Slovaks are shown. Peter Michal Bohun has a vast catalog of work than spans everything from single-subject portraiture to settings of villagers, farm workers, and families throughout the Slovakia of his time… 1822-1897. Personally I love Bohun’s work for its richness of life, and strength of form and color. Add to that, the fact that he came from my Grandmother’s region near Dolny Kubin makes him all the more dear to me. I think it also important to acknowledge the fact that Bohun was another founding member of Matica Slovenska, and fervent about Stur and the Slovak revival. I will include one more before we move on.

With Bohun, and so many other Slovak artists, we cross over from Romantic to Realist period. The rejection of “the individual in the majesty of the natural world”, a romanticizing of the living in the outdoors, and “sky and landscape” first – then everything after. We will see our people, places, and things as they were; an emphasis on nationalism, and the hardships and struggles of people at work… bringing empathy and recognition to their station in life.
We will pass over many of our best; Jozef Czanczik (Czauczik/Czaucsig) is another favorite of mine, and along with Johann Rombauer, and is considered a leader in Slovak art of the 19th century, and wholly Slovak. He was born in Levoca, studied – it is said- in Vienna, and returned to Levoca to spend the rest of his life their. Another exploration, even if just a look in Wiki, Czanczik was an incredibly talented painter who not only did portraiture, but also (like many) he created frescoes in a few of the churches in Spis (Speesh).

As we see with both Marko and Benicky (ben-itz-key), the “Realist” effect is beginning to take hold. Marko is Hungarian, and Benicky is Slovak, I believe – both bios are difficult to come by. Marko goes on to paint grand landscapes. This is the art of the middle periods, and typifies what was being lived, experienced and seen by the Slovaks of the day. Artists such as Jozef Bozetech Klemens are beginning to segue from portraiture to landscapes. Klemens was born in Slovakia and did the now-famous painting of Ludovit Stur (you saw it in Part III), and he did work as a geologist, as well as a photographer.


In a span of roughly 15 years, we can see Klemens develop as an artist. Zofia Brezovicka is a wonderful painting and its glowing shape-filled aura asks me to look into it… as well does his Mountain waterfall. But we continue to move forward in the growth and development of our art and artists. While there are still portraits being painted, there is a strong accent by many to show the struggle of those not well-off enough to pay to have their pictures painted. Heading into the back half (and bringing this all together) of our 19th century, we have two of the great artists of the age in Eduard Majsch (my-sh) and Ladislav Mednyansky, or Mednansky (med-nee-yahnskee). Although neither were entirely Slovak, they were born here and created some of our best late 19th century art.



Eduard Majsch (1852-1919) renders many of the styles of the mid-to-late 19th century. He seems to mirror the work of the Dutch “Old Masters” in “Serenade” with its light and dark themes, In “Blind Joe”, Majsch gives a sanpshot of everyday life, and the run-up to his earnest semi-impressionistic work of Bratislava and the Danube in winter. Impressionism was sweeping western Europe at the time, as it begun on 10/15 earlier in Paris. Majsch is a little lighter on detail than say “Blind Joe”, but remains outdoor to give this wide open look at his city with Bratislava Castle silhouetted against the winter sky. I see more in his paintings everytime I go to the SNG. He is considered a “Hungarian” painter, even though his father, Sebastian was an “Austrian painter of Slovak descent”. Nonetheless, Eduard’s paintings captured the feel of the life in Slovakia during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Ladislav Mednaynsky (1852-1919), was a giant in Slovak art. Both he and Majsch were actually born in the territory of Slovakia, but were considered “Hungarian’ despite there origin of birth… Mednaynsky in Beckov (Western Slovakia) and Majsch (Bratislava). It’s a funny thing, that the Hungarian/Magyars were so nationalist in this sense. Add to this that Magyarization was in full swing with Kossuth’s fervent appeal to have the language and culture in the whole of the Kingdom attain a number one status… Hungarian/Magyar first. I’m not sure if either artist at this time was “political”, but they put their work to canvas and gave us art on a par with anything else at the time. They are not alone, there are many, many that we could look at; I chose them because they appeal to me the most. Also, Martin Benka (1888-1971) bears mention here, as he is looked up on as the root of the “Modernist” movement in Slovakia. Benka is entirely Slovak and dedicated himself to recording rural life, the simple live of those in the countryside living in the natural world. When you stand in front of his work, you can almost get the sense of him creating this work spontaneously, and without any contrivance. I will include one of Benka’s works at our close.

For my eye, Mednaynsky seems to embody the early-Modern painter. He was taught early on in watercolor at 12/14 years old and then earned his education in Munich and Paris. He had a studio in Montmatre at the beginning of the Bell Epoque in Paris. He was influenced by the Barbizon School (outdoor moods/landscape), and of course Impressionism. In the SNG, in front of Mednaynsky, time passes slowly as my eye (and mind) wander across his rich paintings of our past.

We will end here with an early painting by Martin Benka. I know there are so many more to mention, but time does not allow for an extensive trip through the astounding treasure of written, visual, and dramatic art that has been created under the thumb of the Hungarians… but art always survives. Hippocrates said it best: “ars longa, vita brevis”… art lasts, but life is short > and I paraphrase. Telling our story through art is absolutely important. Slovakia may have had setbacks during the nearly 1,000 years of Hungarian/Magyar rule, but its spirit endured, and that spirit is apparent in the art it created. I sincerely hope that I shed a little more light on the richness and fullness of a people, culture, or nation that didn’t exist in the minds of many Hungarians… leaders and citizens.
We will return to the History Corner, and our regular posts on what exactly happened from the post-Ausgleich (Compromise of 1867) period to our run-up to WWI, where I will end the posts on SLovak history, and begin anew with all that I am learning about single events from Medieval to pre-WWI Slovakia.
I thank all of you who have been following me, or just dropped in, and I appreciate your indulgence as I may have run a bit long on this post. Until we meet again… please take care of yourselves, and take care of each other.
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