
A couple of Mondays ago, I had the distinct honor of playing a small djembe with some of my dear friends in Sitra Achra. My good buddy Ico (Eee-cho) was there to support me. and my dear drumming brother Ajdzi (eyed-zhee) kept me in line with eye contact as I accompanied them through a few of their brilliant covers of blues, country blues, and beyond. This was definitely something I will never forget. They are all great musicians and I am thankful to have met them.

Next Apache is one of my top “have-to-visits” in Bratislava. I’ve written about it in past posts. It is a funky-cool bistro that fills quickly with students of all studies, and some of the most interesting people here in town. It has great energy when full, and very nice quiet vibe when less populated. The backroom we played in is lined with bookshelves, and crammed to the gills with everything you can imagine, in many languages, and intriguing in its eclectic mix. I’ve met people here, young and old, who’ve become good friends. I am grateful to Ico for introducing me to it many months ago.
The following post will be my second-to-last on the Slovaks, as I intend to end with WWI. The outcome of the war, Czecho-Slovakia, has a history that I am not very fond of, and have limited knowledge of. Realizing, of course, that the Slovaks needed the Czechs to help form their own place as a “free entity” after the Treaty of Trianon, the reality of the the actual situation was no less an advantage than being under the thumb of the Hungarians for almost 1,000 years… that is just my opinion. Some historians would easily shoot my outlook down, but the Slovaks needed the Czechs mainly because they had nothing in place to administer themselves. The Slovak portion of the union had to be built from the ground up, in effect – administration, judiciary, infrastructure…etc. They were still treated as “little brothers” by the Czechs, and not as equals. I will leave it at that, again… just my opinion. On to the History Corner and the exodus of the Slovaks from the “Kingdom of Hungary” to the U.S. in the early 20th century. This is perhaps the most intriguing aspect of the history of Slovakia for me. Because it is here that the past (my ancestors) comes into direct contact with my life.
HISTORY CORNER
If you have been following my posts, even a few, you might get the sense that I am incredibly proud to be of Slovak heritage… if just 1/2 – from my Father’s side. I have tried to give an unblemished account of what our history was like and made an effort to keep my emotional involvement in check. It is a difficult task to carry out. My heritage is very close to my heart, and I have been studying it for more than half of my lifetime.
In this post I would like to set the scene for our last post in this series… the experience of the Slovaks prior to WWI. I have pointed out that the first real exodus, of the Slovaks from the Kingdom of Hungary began in 1873, and they were mostly from the Spis (Speesh) area. This is an area in the north of Slovakia. There were many Slovaks that went before this group, some time earlier, a few so early into the world that they would end up taking part in the US revolutionary war against Great Britain, and an entire unit from Chicago that would fight for the Union in the US Civil War.
Although I have cited Hungary’s forced Magyarization as a primary reason for the Slovaks to leave their natural and historical homeland, there are other reasons, and it is important to point out that many of those reasons were shared across the board with other emigrating cultures. The story of the Slovaks is well related to any and all of the emigres that went west to the US. Unsurprisingly though, they quickly discovered that it wasn’t paved in gold. Oddly enough, many Slovaks were only going for a short time to work and save enough money to buy their own plot of land in Slovakia, returning in a much stronger financial standing than when they had left. Many decided to stay in the US, after all, and sent for the rest of their families… but back to a couple of the other circumstances. There was a Cholera epidemic in 1873 (among many from1831/32, 1848/49, 1854/55, 1866/67, and numerous crop failures. The promised (and enacted) land reforms did not manifest a better quality of life for the peasants. The large estates reserved the best arable lands for themselves, thus leaving a thin poor soil for subsistence farming. The average income for any peasant working the estates was 15 cents a day; some would make up to .30 cents in a day. A paltry sum when compared to wages in the US. $1.00/$1.50 a day was an enticement to try their luck in the United States. But before they go West, let’s look at the conditions that they had to meet prior to getting on the boat to their new life.
Since we have an idea of the “why” for the Slovak emigration, I want to touch on the “how”. Let’s begin the odyssey in Pokryvac where my Babicka (Bah-beech-ka), my Grandmother was born. It is located in the far north of Slovakia (“Upper Hungary” at the time), and my Great-Grandfather accompanied Babicka, Marija Halaj (Huh-lie) to New York City. My Babicka was about 15 years old at this time in 1912. The trip that my Great-Grandfather undertook, he had done three years earlier with my Great-Aunt Zuzana, Marija’s older sister, in 1909. If you stop to think about it, Matej (Mah-tay) crossed the Atlantic four times. In that day and age, this is epic. He was a MIller; quite a prestigious line of work for the age. The millers were considered go-betweens from the people working the land and the estate owners. Also, they had to be good with their hands, and adept mechanically to keep the water-driven mill in top shape. How did they go about getting from a remote place to a port? Many emigres traveled by cart, by one of the few railways, or they walked. The distance from Pokryvac to Gdansk, Poland (nearly straight north) was 700km (430mi +/-), and to Bremen, Germany it was a little more than 1,000km (620mi +/-). To the south was the port of Trieste, and it would have been an 815km (500mi +/-), through Hungary proper – so that route was a not a choice. We can only assume that it was not an easy trip by any measure. Most went to Bremen.
Once in Bremen, they may have had to wait until the ship was to set sail. I’m sure that Matej and Zuzana/Marija would have been in 3rd class, if not steerage to cut costs. On the “Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse”, which both Grandparents traveled on, the whole ship was renovated after a fire in 1906 – all 3rd class. In 1912, for instance, the Titanic charged 7pounds for 3rd class travel. It equates to roughly $1,000 (+/-) in todays money. Often, 3rd class was steerage; the emigres were crowded into essentially the bottom-rear of the ship. The noise of the engines, the heat, and the density of human bodies would not have been pleasant. The passage could take up to ten days, depending on how often the ship stopped at various other ports-of-call. In this day and age, it is nearly unimaginable, that they could be treated like cattle, and had the meddle to endure the 7-10 day trip in a such a small space. The wretchedness of which is well-known. Most often the emigrants would under-go a medical inspection before boarding the ship; this was either mandated by the steamship lines, or the state in which the port was located. This was done also because, most often, the steamship companies had to pay the return passage for those that were turned away from their port of entry… be it the US or Canada – another country the emigres would seek to enter.
If you want to understand what that experience was like, I am attaching a very good read via a link to a post on the steerage experience. https://freepages.rootsweb.com/~gregkrenzelok/family/The%20Steerage%20Experience.html. I thank and cite Greg Krenzelok for this report.

Although I think it would’ve been possible for the emigrants to leave their 3rd class (steerage) compartments, it would not seem likely that they could do it very often. One had to believe that the pictures we are most familiar with seeing, people crowding the deck to see the Statue of Liberty, the emigrants were not only excited to see that they had finally made it to the “new land”, but I”m absolutely sure that were happy to get fresh air at last.
In my last post on this subject, I will aim to explain what the experience was like for my Grandparents, not only going through Ellis Island, but finding their way from New York to Blue Island, Illinois… where they finally settled.
I want to thank you all for following my posts, and welcome any to comment. In the next (last?) post I will also explain my reasoning for starting all over again with early Slovak History, and more importantly the reason that I cannot bring myself to follow Slovakia in the post-WWI era. Until we meet again, please take care of yourselves, and please, take care of each other.



































