A Happy New Year, and Slovak Wishes

Light of a New Year (courtesy of Ico Cajka/Ee-cho Chay-ka)

   I would like to wish everyone a Happy New Year. My wish is that you are healthy and happy. We are very lucky to safe and sound in this world rife with stress, war, and unsettled issues. The New Year holiday was a quiet affair for me here in Bratislava. I met for an early gathering on Saturday to see good friends prior to New Year’s Eve. It is always a great time, with super discussions, and many laughs. I thank my dear friends Danko and Igor for their spirit and humor. Sunday night was spent playing chess with my dear friend/landlord/benefactor – Vlad, before we went downstairs to have a late dinner with friends from Ukraine. Mihail and Natalie were super hosts and it was a perfect “Slavic meal” to go with our traditional ringing in of the New Year. I counted my many blessings and slept well into the New Year. To my dear family and friends in the US, I miss you and hope only what you hope for.

   I continue on in learning all I can about what surrounds me. I spent more time in the Slovak National Gallery, hoping to find any art from our era of  conversation and study. There will be nothing until June of this year. I will keep visiting, as well as the Slovak Natural History Museum. There is still so much to see. As I delve deeper into our past, I realize that I know very little, and the road ahead will reveal much more than I had ever thought possible. I have come to accept how deeply enmeshed the Magyar (Hungarian) infuence is in our culture… and ours in theirs. Speaking to more people with dual ancestry (Magyar and Slovak), my resentments of the past are beginning to fade away. I’m ashamed to have to come to the conclusion that the past is the past, and everyone of them has full acceptance of that weight. They carry it freely and don’t seem as burdened with it as I have been most of my life. It is imperative that I continue with this approach as an amateur historian. On that note, I can further outline our history without a “historical bias”. I never liked revisionism and it saddens me to think I have been a hypocrite in that respect. On to the mid-19th century and our struggle to survive after the Revolutions of 1848.

HISTORY CORNER

   I want to sum up the awakening and how we arrived at this point in our history. Firstly, one of the most outstanding of aspects is that nearly 50 years had elapsed since Anton Bernolak standardized the Slovak language. In that precious time the great debate over what language was proper wasted time that may have been used to gain a political foothold. It was Bernolak who powered the genesis of the awakening. Yet, there was a gulf between the two confessional powers in Slovakia; Catholics and Lutherans couldn’t agree on which form should be used to unite the Slovaks. Of the three dialects – Eastern, Central, and Western Slovak – Bernolak chose to arrange the Slovak language along the lines of Biblical Czech. Whereas, eventually Stur would bring the Central Slovak into play, recognizing that all Slovaks could identify and speak Central Slovak as it held the prestige of being the linguistic basis for lore/oral traditions, and everyday life. From Bernolak to Kollar, to Holly and Stur; these men equated nation with language.

   The influence the Catholic church held as a force in the Czech lands provided further impetus for many of the Lutherans to create something of their own. Many Slovaks, especially those in mining towns and larger burgs, were adamant about using their own language and not German, Latin or Magyar. This issue of debate is a holdover from the fourteenth century when the Hussite Czechs came to Slovakia with a bible translated in their language. Since the fifteenth century Czech had become the written word in many, or most of the town annals, and it endured in Slovakia because the Slovaks did not have a cultural or economic center to incubate the development of a literary language as the Czechs did with Prague. Aside from this issue, the Lutherans now had a chance to sever ties with Rome by hearing the scriptures in a language that was not Latin. This would suffice until Ludovit Stur came along.  While Anton Bernolak should be given all the praise for attempting to codify the Slovak language, and thus adding further fire to the awakening… this dual linguistic issue would cost the Slovaks precious time and reveal them to the world just a tad late. It would reveal them nonetheless. Stur and many, many others would have to juggle this issue along with the lack of interest in their plight by the Hungarians or Habsburgs; the previous does not begin to scratch the surface of the massif in front of our Slovaks.

Secondly, as I see it, 1848 was a difficult time for the Habsburgs, as they spent enormous resources to quell uprisings in Hungary, the Czech lands, and even in Vienna and other cities in Austria. I think it is important to remind you that while these uprisings seemed to have a “revolutionary fervor”; the demands made included rights-based ideals, universal sufferage, better treatment of the peasantry as serfdom had just been outlawed in Hungary (Austria/1781), and eradication of the nobility. There wasn’t much weight given to toppling of kings or sweeping aside the ancient regimes. The struggle was for recognition within the empire and some autonomy in their lives while remaining citzens of the Austrian-Hungarian realms. The uprisings in Slovakia were weak, toothless affairs, and left no lasting impact on either crown lands.

The Habsburgs are large-part players in the story of the centuries-long struggle of our Slovaks. The constant influence of the Austrian Habsburgs, their agents, and their absolutist rule merely tripled the struggle for the Slovaks. Legitimacy for the Slovaks would have to come on both fronts – Habsburg and Magyar. Although Maria Theresa (1717-80) and her heirs attempted educational reform and had some successes, overall the reforms would be erased by the Hungarians and their “Magyarization” campaign. I could possibly spend at least two or three posts to limn out the nearly-good, and mostly bad edicts and legislature that emanated from Vienna. Perhaps down the line I may devote some time to the illustrate the sway that Vienna held over the Upper Kingdom, both in support of Hungary and also against Hungary … yet always for the benefit of the Habsburgs in both cases.

Returning to the Slovaks and the aftermath of the Pan-Slavic Congress in Prague. With a number of uprisings and revolts occuring in the Austria and Hungary, we would think that the Slovaks came away from the shortened Congress with nothing. That is not exactly true. In their call for emancipation and the actions of their leaders, the Slovaks served notice that they were no longer a vague amalgam of people living between the Danube and Carpathians. In the span of nearly two generations, the Slovaks engaged each other, overcame their confessional divide (which led to a common language), and developed a national spirit that, if nothing else, gave impetus to develop “survival politics”. As we begin to look beyond 1848/49, we will see that even though demands to oversee their own affairs were dismissed in Budapest, there was certainly not quite enough strength to get beyond the larger forces deciding their fate at this point… Austria and Hungary. Their lack of succcess was due to these factors, and not political experience (which had been gained immensely), or leadership – which they now had more than either the big two would be prepared for. Simply put, there was no universal sufferage in the realm, and that might have leveled the playing field; until then, our Slovaks now enter the bigger stage in Central Europe. The nationalities, the Slovaks included, are just pawns on a large chess board.

In the end, what 1848/1849 taught the Slovaks was that once they were able to set aside more than 200 year-old confessional/religious differences, they were able to unite all Slovaks under one language. Thus, they were able to present a common approach and forge ahead with unity. Language also created a legacy for their future culture, which had been growing, and now was certain to expand as an independent Slavic poetic language. The Slovaks are better prepared for Magyarization, greater political, economic, and cultural growth. It should be known also that the Slovaks turned down a “Czecho-Slovak” option because they believed that the struggle for survival rested on getting past religious differences and demanding unity. In our upcoming posts we will revisit the issues of 1848/1849, and begin to delve into the complicated situation of survival in mid-19th century Central Europe. Finally the Slovaks have the tools that they lacked early on; they had a somwhat centralized leadership, a common language, and cohesion… entities they lacked in the centuries prior to the 19th. From this point in history until WWI, the Slovaks will face fierce opposition to their demands for nationhood, it will come from a united Austrio-Hungarian Empire, and it is their most serious position in their history. I will also spend some time to acquaint the reader with Austria in the 19th century. There exists a myriad of actors and settings on this stage and it believe it would be beneficial to the reader to know some of them. Meanwhile, in the rest of the world…

UMBRELLA MOMENT

    The first revolution in Europe begins in Sicily on January 12,1848; this is said to have sparked the European revolutions/uprisings. Gold is found at Sutters Mill in California, and a week later the US and Mexico sign a treaty ending the Mexican-American War. Mexico cedes roughly all of what would become the Southwestern United States – California becomes a “possession”, attaining statehood a little more than two years later. Marx and Engels publish the Communist Manifesto. France and Sweden experience unrest, with France losing King Louis Philipe who abdicates his throne to his grandson. Canada gains its first leadership under democracy. Uprisings continue in Europe in Hungary and Germany, with Hungary demanding self-determination within the empire (Ferdinand is on the throne at this time), and King Fredrick Wilhelm of Prussia is forced to appoint a more liberal government in a still non-unified Germany. Later in the year (November 7th), Zach Taylor wins the US presidency in the first election held in every state on the same day. On the far side of the world, British rule weathers a rebellion in Sri Lanka, and a 2nd Anglo-Sikh war has broken out in Punjab… and the Great Famine continues in Ireland. Wyatt Earp, Paul Gauguin, Belle Starr, and Susie Taylor (1st nurse in the Black Army) are born. While in passing was John Quincy Adams, Branwell Bronte (brother to Charlotte, Anne, and Emily…who would pass later in the year), and Francois-Rene Chateaubriand (French writer/diplomat)… The world experienced a great deal in 1848, as it does in each year, and history will march on into 1849 – getting a bit more complicated as it does. Since my focus at this time is the history of the Slovaks and Central Europe in relation, I don’t have to highlight the fact that much of what occurs elsewhere will eventually filter down to our Slovaks and their surroundings. In my next post I will touch on the literature and art that grew from the Slovaks at this time. I also want to focus a bit on the Austria in Central Europe due to its prime power on the continent and the influence it had on the Slovaks, whether as a primary juridiction, or as a proxy – through Hungary.

I will leave you here in 1848, while doing my best to sketch a rough drawing of the Slovak sruggle to be heard and in the end, to survive as a nation-within-an-empire. There is still a great deal that I had to omit to either compress into this short blog, or keep you from getting bored. We will begin our next post in 1849, as this follow-up year is chocked full of events that lead us ever onward in our not so unique struggle to survive as there are many other nations attempting to do as much during this period in history.

I wish you all the very best in 2024, and goodness knows that we need it. Our present world holds greater challenges than we may have ever faced as human beings. Thank you for folowing me on this journey of discovery; my past and the past of my ancestors is eternally fascinating and I hope it will provide a spark for you to look at your own. Just as we are participants in history, so to were our ancestors, and it affects all of us. Please, take care of yourselves, and take care of each other.

Onward Through 1848, and the Slovak National Awakening

Assembly of the Pan-Slavic Congress/Prague 1848

A few moments of confession before we delve into the remainder of the events of 1848. As mentioned in prior posts, there are many factors and events that I have elided, or outright abridged; this is in order to compress our travel through the history of the Slovaks. From this period in the Mid-19th century going forward, our history becomes ever-more complex and if I leave anyone out, it is only because I cannot condense more than 1,000 years in a 5/7 minute post. I am cautious to demand to much time from my reader. If there is a particular moment in time you would like me to focus in on, please comment and ask…I am only to happy oblige you. Thank you.

By early 1848 Stur, Hodza, and many others were gaining poitical strength and met at a special meeting of Slavs in Vienna. This meeting would be the basis for the first-ever Pan-Slavic Congress to be held in in Prague, June 1848. Other events pre-dated and coincided with this, While Stur and Hodza were in Vienna, Hodza and others created a “14-point Demands of the Slovak Nation”. Their list of demands went beyond Stur’s earlier 6-point roster of 1847. Budapest immediately issued arrest warrants for Stur, Hodza, Hurban…et.al..This very moment witnessed an armed uprising by Serbs, Slovenes, and Croats. Thus, the Hungarians turned their attentions South. Hurban bravely attended a session of the Croatian Diet, and he spoke so eloquently on the struggle of the Slovaks, that the Diet issued a joint declaration – Croatian/Slovak in nature. This alliance, along with the audacious proclamation on the part of both groups served to do one thing only… it ignited resistance in the Hungarians and notice by the Habsburgs in Vienna.

It is precisely here that we can see the various cultures of the multi-ethnic Hungarian holdings. coming together to support each other. The Congress came about with the insistence and help of Pavel Josef Safarik (Sha-far-ik) and numerous Czech activists, among them Frantisek Palacky. Safarik is one of the great leaders of the Slavist movements in Central Europe, he was a philologist (historical linguistics), a historian, and an ethnographer. The Congress at the start was not exact in it’s overall goals and this led to quarrels and debates regarding the format and agenda. I think this illustrates perfectly the difficulty of an incredible variety of cultural intersts coming together in one place… some having animosities with others.

Seal of the Prague Slavic Congress 1848

Almost 300 delegates were in Prague on the 2nd of June to represent Croats, Serbs, Poles, Ruthenes (at that time Ukrainian),Galicians (related to the Ukraine/Ruthenes in Poland, Czechs (Bohemians/Moravians), Slovaks, Slovenes, Dalmatians, Magyars (believe it or not), Sorbs (Slavic ethnic group in Germany -relatives of Serbs from pre-6th century), and so many smaller ethno-linguistic groups that we would have a long list. The Congress was divided into 3 sections: 1) Poles & Ruthenes, 2)All South Slavs, 3) Slovaks & Czechs. The vast majority of the delegates were Czechs and Slovaks, and surprisingly German was the primary language used. During a debate about the role of Austria in the interest of the Slavs as “the preservation of Austria”, Stur stated that their goal was “self-preservation”. It is apparent that the Austrians (& Hungarians for that matter) were not grasping the totality of the moment. This lack of a scintilla of empathy, vision, or awareness has been, and will continue to be a long-running theme leading up to WWI.

The most important moment of the Congress came when “The Manifest to the Peoples of Europe” was read. It would be very helpful to look for this manifesto online. It is very eloquent, and clear about the goals and aims of the Slavic delegates. This was a proclamation that stridently advocated for an end to oppression of the Slavic people.

The Austrians (and Hungarians…they would not meld into the “Austro-Hungarian Empire” until 1867) were in disbelief or outfight denial that such a movement would occur within their empire. Both of the ruling elite, Austrians and Magyars, continued to deny that the Slovaks existed as a political entity. By August of 1848 an uprising in Hungary had taken a very serious tone, and by December Franz Josef I revoked the “April Laws”. This was legislation passed in early 1848 (April) by Lajos Kossuth to abolish the nobility, in a cue to modernize the Hungarian national constitution. It was signed by then-Emperor Ferdinand V of Austria here in Bratislava (then Pressburg) The story of Ferdinand’s rise to the throne is captivating as he had epilepsy, and is usually depicted as feeble-minded and not capable of ruling. His sobriquets were “The Benign”…or “The Benevolent”. He abdicated to lead in Franz Josef I in December of 1848; Ferdinand may have been well-intentioned and passive, but this was no time for a ruler of his nature in the ultra-conservative Austrian Empire.

The result of Franz Josef’s revocation of the April Laws was to garner more anti-Habsburg resentment in Hungary, who was only the 3rd country in Europe to enact a law to have a parliamentary process by democratic elections (France/1791 – Belgium/1831). Under Kossuth and his burgeoning power, Austria sent in troops to militarily intervene. This led to a war for independence in Hungary against the Habsburg dynasts. Early in 1849, the wars began with Austrians against the Hungarians and the Austrians did not fare very well in the scheme of things. It wasn’t until the Russians were allied with Austria that the tide turned in mid-1849, and by August of 1849 the Hungarians were defeated.

We can ask; “what happened to our Slovaks after the Prague Congress of 1848?”. Our next post will cover the Slovaks in their quest to be taken seriously. We will begin in late-1848 and move into the year 1849 and beyond. I will attempt to outline where our Slovaks stood in this very complicated and turbulent era in the history of Central Europe. The fate of the Slovaks does not rest in their hands yet, and the struggle to survive continues.

We are looking at a period and place in history that is matched by only a few others in complexity, geography, and ethno-linguistics. Russia is an empire that has more languages and ethnicities than our region. Aside from that, I believe that the history of our theater is the most difficult to understand.

I thank each and every one who have taken the time to read this post, and share my fascination with our history and culture. In our next post I will take the time to share an “umbrella moment”, in order to grasp what else is happening in the wider world. I wish you and you families a better New Year. Until we meet again, take care of yourselves…and take care of each other

The Upper Kingdom And 1848…

Before we begin our post on the Slovak National Awakening (SNA); I must send many apologies for the gap in time since our last meeting. I have been occupied with helping my good friend Prof. Homza with his book. I have also been socially much more active, my circle of friends is growing, and that alone greatly adds to my life here. We are also experiencing winter’s bag of tricks. Snow, freezing rain, change in temps, and generally a give and take. Most often, if it is bad out, I am content to stay home and read or write. I have also spent some time in the Slovak National Gallery looking for pieces to include in not only this post, but coming blogs to follow. I aim to adhere to my own maxim: ” if you want to know about a culture, spend time in their museums and galleries”. As we will see in this post, the art from this period represents the atmosphere of the SNA, as well as the spirit of the moment. The artists of this era are a tad behind on the timeline of Western European culture, but have a wonderful grasp of their medium overall. There are beautiful landscapes, portraits, and sculptures arranged throughout.

  I must say a few words about a new place that I was introduced to. My good friend Igor (nickname Ico/ ee-cho) has taken me to, and it is called “Next Apache”. Igor said it is a “must-see”, and he did not disappoint. We have visited a few times and I love it there. Next Apache is a small two-room established bistro connected the Main Protestant Church of Bratislava. This past week I met the owner Ben, a Canadian ex-pat in fine fashion. I was talking and I heard a song by the Tragically Hip coming from the speaker in the front room, and I got up, went around the corner, and looked right him and asked who played this. His response, “…you know the Tragically hip?”, with amazement, and it started a conversation that lasted quite some time; off and on. One Monday a month he has a blues gig in the small space, and I will definitely be there. This is a fantastic place for kava,pivo,vino and conversation. It is a neighborhood hot-spot as well as a warm and inviting place for all others. Ben is affable and well-spoken;Next Apache is a “must-experience” in Bratislava… Ico hit the nail on the head.

Next Apache with Igor (Ico/ee-cho).

HISTORY CORNER

In our last post I attempted to limn out a few of the factors leading up to the SNA. To summarize: 1) Clerical intelligentsia developed a language more Slovak than Czech, 2) A majority of Protestant educators, along with Catholic priests began to further a form of “linguistic nationalism” to highlight the Slovak culture within the Hungarian state. 3) Stur comes to a compromise with Catholic adherents of Bernolak, whichs aids in the development of the Awakening (and later a modern Slovak language).

This relationship between language and culturism (or nationalism) occurs throughout the multi-ethnic Hungarian Kingdom; it is not the only imperial entity in which this is happening, and by no stretch of the imagination are the Slovaks alone in their struggle… as we shall see.

I want to spend a moment to refresh your memory regarding our moment in the Autumn of 1848. For some, perhaps you will remember the basic historical phenomena of the revolutions of 1848. This is essentially a period that sees upheaval with its roots in Sicily, spreading to Italy, France, Germany, and on to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The various revolutions began on common issues, yet they all ended in failure and the resulting repression from the monarchies and states throughout Europe was brutal. It is very important to point out that the revolts (or upheavals) of 1848 had very little to do with Marx and Engels as they were more concerned with “Industrial capitalism” and the Industrial Revolution…. the impact of their work was still at least a few years away.

The European revolts centered on the issues of removal of the old monarchical structures and in creating independent nation-states; in short these movements were liberal and democratic in nature – an outgrowth of “romantic nationalism”. At this point in history, East Central Europe was still mainly agrarian, and just beginning to catch up to the Industrial Revolution in the West. Incidentally, 1848 was the year that my German ancestors (Mother’s side) left Thuringia for the United States.

The revolutionary spirit traveled from Paris, to Vienna and then to Budapest where the Hungarians were attempting to cast off the Habsburgs. Three years prior (c. 1845), the Hungarian authorities allowed the printing of Slovak language papers and press. First was Stur, then J.M. Hurban, and they among many others began to sow the seeds of the movement. They promoted education, Sunday schools (in Stur’s Slovak – of course), libraries, theaters, and many other social gatherings and functions. Of note; The Farmer’s Association was founded – it was the first credit cooperative in Europe. By 1847 Stur spoke of his 6-point platform regarding the issues of the politics and economy of Slovakia,

Here are his points: 1) As Stur was a member of the Hungarian Diet (Svolen) he wanted to proclaim that serfdom ws to be abolished, as a sort of buy-out using state funds, loosening Slovak serfs from their Magyar masters at minimum expense to the serfs. 2) Abolish the patrimonial courts (ruled by the upper classes), and free commoners from the control of the nobles. 3) Allow commoners to represent themselves – to be heard – in County government and the Hungarian Diet. 4) The freeing of privileged towns from County jurisdictions, and allow royally chartered their representation by strength in voting right vis-a-vis the Diet. 5) Abolish the privilege of the nobility, making everyone equal in the court. Abolish the tax exemptions for the nobility, and allow for the service of commoners in public office. 6) Ensure freedom of the press

Stur also raised the issue of Slovak as the language of government. It should be noted (and known) that while Stur wanted to work within the framework of Hungarian law…yet he advocated for total revolution and separation. This was to include any interference in either of the religious confessions (Catholic & Protestant). It is hard to describe that the modern Slovaks don’t carry the resentment towards the Magyars that I do. The Slovaks were continually oppressed for nearly 1,000 years and yet most Slovaks shrug their shoulders and write it off to”history”. But in doing more research, and in talking to many Slovak experts in the historical, political, and cultural aspects of this “union” between the two – I am beginning to grasp what occurred in the past. The Slovaks were “too nice” to the Magyars, and succumbed to their rule as result of it. We have witnessed in past posts how the Hungarian Kingdom changed the political and cultural landscape to their advantage by subjugating and subduing the Slovaks. They existed as serfs and laborers for the crown of St. Stephen, had their resources mined and reaped to the benefit of the “kingdom”. For this reason I always subsistute “the Upper Kingdom” for “Upper Hungary” when discussing Slovakia in the past. Without it the Hungarian Empire would not be what it became. During the Ottoman occupation, the Slovaks were the drivers of Hungary’s economy, moreso than Romania, Dalmatia, or any of the holdings of the empire in the Balkans. A period of almost 160 years,,,1541 -1699. Even the Austrians were complicit in this behavior, as the relationship with Hungary ebbed and flowed from ally to adversary, and back again. The history of this land, between the Baltic Sea and the Balkan Peninsula is the penultimate example of constant change, and I have learned a great deal from my stay here. Nonetheless, there are always many sides to any one story and this story bears telling, no matter how you view any of the sides.

As I mentioned, the year 1848 was a time of intense tumult in the whole of Europe, but it wasn’t the only place that experienced a turning of the tide in human history. Our “Umbrella Moment”: In the U.S. the California Gold Rush began, the Mexicans sign a treaty with the US ending the Mexican-American War and gave away what would become the state of Texas and the rest of the border-forming territories of the Southwest. Marx and Engels publish The Communist Manifesto/ still it will take another 5 to 10 years for its impact to be felt overall. Scientists discover a moon belonging to Saturn. In Ireland the “Great Famine” continues… and Wyatt Earp, Louis Tiffany, Paul Gauguin,, and Antonio Enes are born.

I will close here as we are exactly on the doorstep of the hard events of the Slovak National Awakening. There is much that I have left out, and although it is germane, I don’t want to have a greater read-time than 5/6 minutes. Our next post will follow closely (Friday/Saturday) and we will visit the actual occurrence of the Awakening and the resulting pushback from the Hungarians propelling us into the 1850’s and outward toward the latter 19th century. I am learning that this entire movement and the relationship between the Slovaks and Magyars (Hungarians) is absolutely complex; far more than I have ever studied in any history. Very few empires in history contained as many ethno-linguistic cultures than Hungary’s territory, and each had a very complex history with it. We can see the evidence of it in Stur’s need to work within Hungarian law and to not break away entirely.

I appreciate everyone that has taken the time to read this missive, and I promise to be more proactive and design to post in a more timely and consistent fashion. I wish you all well and please remember to take care of yourselves… and take care of each other.

Post Note: I have a glitch in photo app that I will have to work out in order to embed art of this period. I promise to have it worked out for our next post on Friday/Saturday… thank you for understanding.

Above And Below The Danube

   Last week I took a ride on my bike further than I’ve ever been…into Austria. I took an inland path to Bad Deutsch-Altenburg which is up the Danube River from Bratislava. It is quite something to go from a Slavic perspective to a Germanic perspective in a span of 2 1/2 to 3 hours. I had to contend with a light rain early on but I knew it wouldn’t last and pedaled on. I don’t use my iphone here since I don’t have a european sim card yet for it, and unless I know I can connect to wifi, it stays off until I am able to find a connection. As a result I don’t have any photos, but I may do so in the future. I am limited by my small “Slovak phone”. It was something that I bought in 2019 to avoid paying through the nose to AT&T for service over here. It cost 70 euros and works very well for local calls and texting. Unfortunately the camera takes crappy photos, so there are no photos to share for this little jaunt.

The Heidentor, built in the 4th, century A.D., is a landmark of the Carnuntum region. Its name comes from the fact that in the Middle Ages it was believed to be the tomb of a pagan giant. In German it literally means “Heathen or Pagan’s Gate”. Originally builtin the mid-4th century A.D. to celebrate some sort of victory by a local army. (stock photo)

   Bad Deutsch-Altenburg is a very cool river town, with a “castle” that seems more like a big manor house, but its Roman Catholic church is inspiring in a way. I plan to ride back to get a good look inside, and to visit the Museum Carnuntinum, which houses relics from the Roman-era city of Carnuntum from around 50 AD. This was a period when the Romans had kept to themselves on the south bank of the Danube, and rarely attempted to foray into the north bank due to the ferocity of the pre-Slavic tribes that inhabitated the area. Nonetheless, I am still very fascinated by the ability to walk back into the distant past and dwell in it for a time in my mind. Just as it was in Albania and my earlier trips through the Balkans, I revel in a chance to see the structures (and ruins) of the deep past.

Fall Sunset – captured from the top of my Buddy Ildar’s building. Straight shot. Not “photoshopped”. Friday 27th October as the rain cleared out. (photo: Ildar Bagautidnov)

Last week was quite a busy week for me. Tuesday was our weekly dinner at Zlaty Jelen, and Prof. Homza gave a talk on cartography of the late-Middle Ages. As always, it was insightful and entertaining… even though it was in Slovak, I was still able to pick out a few words and understand what he was trying to convey. On Friday I met him at the Slovenska Narodna Galleria (Slovak National Gallery), and we had a guided tour of the Modern Art section. The “Moderna” as it is called, displays the Slovak visual art from the first half of the 20th century, and most notable is the period from the turn of the century, through the inter-war era (WWI ->>WWII) until postwar, roughly 1948. Although again in Slovak, I had an excellent interpreter in Prof. Homza, and it helped immensely. I am going again this week by myself. I have been putting it off, and now I want to see with my own eyes, taking my time, and looking at it from not only a historical point of view – but also as an art lover. I have stated in this post many times, if you want to understand a culture, take a look at its art. I was fascinated firstly with a trip to the Orava Gallery on earlier visits to Slovakia, and it offered great insight to the bearing and culture of that region… this will be no less an ongoing venture of mine to grasp the whole of Slovak culture.

Julius Korezska: Trees By The River (1927)
Courtyard of the Slovak National Gallery

In the Korezska painting the elements of Impressionism are very evident. This is just one of the many works we looked at. Some were blatantly Cubist, or Dadaist, while other works incorporated motifs of many different influences together. It was an education and whetted my appetite for more.

Fall has arrived in my neighborhood. The Church of St. Elizabeth…”The Blue Church”. Just a few minutes from me, it is always beautiful to see. It is most stunning on a cloudy day, as the blue motif stands out more against a leaden sky.

On Saturday past, I had my first real foray into Petrzalka (Pet-r-zhelka). After the rain had cleared out on Friday, the air was cool and crisp. I made plans with my good friend Daniel (Danko/Dano/Danno) to come over the river to the south and see his Petrzalka. It is the largest borough of Bratislava, housing more than 100,000 people, and has gotten a bad rap in the past. While it is an area that has the most Soviet-era buildings I have seen yet, they have been transformed in the recent years to look cleaner and somewhat more modern. For those that live in or near Chicago, Petrzalka is much like Stateway Gardens or most of the high rises that once lined up east of the Dan Ryan Expresway. In this case, there are many more… but you could imagine them to be just as drab and unappealing. Yet now, I was overwhelmed by the green spaces and the relative peace of the area. We met our friend Stephan at a lakeside concession, and walked to a pub where some guy was playing music much too loud. After meeting up with their friend Igor, we walked to a place named ALFA and sat to have a beer and talk in a place we could be heard. My conversation with Igor was very interesting, and we vowed to stay in touch, although with most of my friendships connected with Danko and the Jelen crowd, that was never a problem… I know I will see him again. Petrzalka is a bit of an anomaly in that it is the only bit of Slovakia on the right bank of the Danube… the south bank. In its earliest time it was a floodplain, and it was inner-mixed with islands due to its proximity to the Danube. Inhabited by mostly farmers, ferrymen, and traders it held no real value until about the 15th century when Bratislava was the capital of the Habsburg Kingdom of Hungary.

The villages and lands were populated mostly by Germans and Croats (most fleeing the Turks during the Ottoman Wars), and by the 18th century the villages merged and it became a popular rec area. Sad Janka Krala (roughly “the orchard of the king”) became the oldest public park in Central Europe in 1776. Petrzalka was connected by a rail bridge before the turn of the 20th century, and following WWI, the new nation of Czecho-Slovakia took control of Bratislava with the Czecho-slovak Legions and secured the ports and borders, adding Petrzalka for strategic reasons, and the rest as they say is history. The story behind it is fascinating, and even though I have been on Stary Most (Old Bridge), I had never crossed over it into Petrzalka. On Saturday, while riding the tram south, it seemed to take on an entirely new perspective. I guess that’s what this part of my life is all about. I will try and post a “mid-week” blog and get back on track with Slovak history since this is indeed the period of my study. This post has been longer than I had planned, and I vow to give my dear reader more substance, than my weekly hijinks. This week will be far less rainy than last, and even though I will be busy socially (coffees, Jelen, art gallery…etc), I want to re-establish our grounding in the Slovak National Awakening of 1848.

Until we meet again, many thanks for tuning in and reading my post. As always, I ask you to comment freely as it helps me to focus my writing, and allows me to see what you think of the job that I’m doing. Please take care of yourself, and take care of each other.

Stirring The Pot

   The days are beginning to cool off and shorten. Although the trees have not begun to turn, there is a bit of a crispness to the air in the morning. Since it has only been in the mid-low 20’sC (68-75F), I am going to hold off riding in the late-afternoon and stay with my short rides to where the Morava and Danube meet, always in the morning. I do it 2 or 3 times a week to get the exercise and release.

   I was going to prepare a “special” blog for mid-week last, but alas, I became engaged in more social engagements. I played drums for the second time in more than 4 years, this went much better than the first time I played. In spite of a few hiccups here and there, all concerned were content with my play as it was a blues jam at a great little place called Jazztikot. It’s just off Hlavne Namestie (Main Square), and it is the perfect spot for Blues and Jazz. It has an “old club” feel, it’s small, and it feels like being in B.L.U.E.S. or Kingston Mines in Chicago…blues hotspots to be sure. It took me some time to wind down after, and luckily my buddy Ildar was there to take a few photos.

At Jazztikot during “Jam Night”. My good friend Kirill is the guitarist with the band that opened the show. That is him on the right. The rest of us (4 on left) are “playing in”. It was good to really hit the drums, almost a catharsis. (photo: Ildar Bagautdinov)

   Last evening (Tuesday 4th Oct.), we assembled at Zlatny Jelen for our weekly dinners, and it was great fun. On some occasions, a speaker will give a short talk about a subject regarding Slovakia, and the gentleman who spoke (in Slovak…of course) gave a talk about economic development in Slovakia. Last week for example, Prof. Homza presented his essay on Coloman the Hungarian King in the late-11th/early 12th centuries. My friend Daniel explained for me in English what was being said. Although I listen intently, I have a tough time picking out words that I know. My problem isn’t speaking it as much as hearing it. It is still too much fun for me; many speak English and the conversations I have with these men and women only helps to understand modern Slovakia all the better. I speak to former professors, ambassadors, politicians, judge advocates, and many more professionals both active and retired. One of my favorites is Emil Bartko, he is the former director of the SND (Slovak National Dance Company), and he makes me laugh, think, and question everything all in one short conversation. Everyone is very kind to me and they embrace me as though I am one of their own. Especially Vlado, the owner, chef, and genius behind the whole operation. He has pledged his help to get my visa to aid Prof. Homza – his good friend.

Note: The above was written 2 weeks ago, and I had intended to post it but ran out of time. Since then, I have been busier each day, and I will include my current standing and the History Corner as well.

Today is 14 October and I celebrated my cousin Randy Erfft’s birthday, as I did my own two days ago. The weather was fantastic on Thursday past, and I spent the day with my good friend Ildar. We went for a short session at krcma (kerch-ma) and then went up near the castle to our favorite Pan-Asian restaurant – Jasmine. We had a late-afternoon meal on the patio and walked back into the Old Town. At Krcma one of my favorite waitresses, Lenka, was celebrating her birthday as well… what a surprise! With a good 30 years between us, I joked that she was just a year or so older than my own daughter… they are alike in that they are very sweet, and yet can be firebrands in their own ways.

With Lenka on our shared birthday… at krcma (Photo credit: Victoria)

   The introspection that I have been experiencing the last few days is warranted, and I guess to be expected. I never really thought about reaching any “older age”, I just have been taking what I have been given. I really try to live as if each day is a gift. I avoid making plans too far ahead, and at this point in my life, I revel in the fact that I am here doing what I wanted to do my whole life…write about history and see some of the world around me. I have been graced with meeting some of the best people ever while on this journey.

A photo from one of my earlier trips to Isle Royale National Park (Courtesy of Pam and Greg Roll)

HISTORY CORNER:

In the period of the early 19th century, the Slovaks were attempting to define their objectives and ideas of exactly their nation should be. They explore these aims as if they were a nation with historic rights. It has been mentioned earlier that there are two basic approaches to the merit of nationhood. One is natural rights, and the other historic rights. In the case of our Slovaks they held natural rights, meaning they were long-time inhabitants of their territoy; they just did not possess the administrative reach to hold national rights. In the realm of natural rights, they held a collective memory of a shared history, and thus would be able to conclude with a well-formed language to draw their goals and aims to progress to nationhood.

Ludovit Stur (Shtur) would provide a unified language by 1844, after being refused assistance by the Czechs in using idioms from both languages. Stur decided to adapt an entirely new Slovak language combining all three dialects of Slovak (East, Central, & West). The period leading up to this moment (the 1820’s and 30’s) were filled with a coming of age for the Slovak intelligentsia, led mostly by Protestants that had been influenced by the Germans and Czechs since the Reformation. They continued to push for cultural and linguistic separation during this “in-between” period, but still attempted to work within the framework of the Hungarian state. Once they raised the political conciousness of the of the average Slovak citizen, they would have completed nearly half of their struggle. I would consider this the sencond stage of their struggle, with the first being Bernolak’s codification of Slovak as separate from Czech – linguistically speaking. This was certainly the onset of Slovak ethnicity as being distinct from Hungarian, but the notion of belonging to a Hungarian nation was still not questioned. Stur and this notion will appear again in further posts as he is a giant in our history.

The policy of “Magyarization” was still being implemented to assimilate those inhabitatnts of the kingdom that were not fully “Hungarian” in the eyes of the ruling aristocracy. There are very many Slovaks that influenced the National Awakening and I will include a short list in the next post when 1848 occurs. At this time in the 1830’s there are still a few issues getting settled, namely Jan Kollar and P.J. Safarik involved Czech as a component of the Slovak language; both men were of the mind that any Slovak language would have to be in a sense “Czecho-Slovak”. This ideal didn’t go well with either Slovaks or Czechs. Both men were influenced by German Romanticism and as such believed that only the educated would be speaking this language.

An aside for a moment. To make matters clear for my reader, most of the leaders of this era were educated at either Protestant-based universities, or Catholic-based universities. Some were trained in Prague, some in Germany, very few in Slovakia itself because there were only one or two institutes of higher learning at the time…Kosice, Trnava, and a mining academy in Banska Stiavnica. Also it is very important to remember that Western Slovak was based mostly on the Czech liturgical legacy.

Onto our stage comes two very influential men. Pavel Jozef Safarik (Sha-far-ik) and Jan Kollar. As I have stated in past blogs, the period prior to the 1840’s, was one of gathering consensus and attempting to derive a common language. Both Kollar and Safarik were widely published, western-trained, and opposed to Bernolak’s codification. In fact Kollar’s “Slavy Dcera” (“The Daughter of Slava”) was widely read and became endeared as a major epic poem in Slavdom at the time. It carried themes of “All-Slavic unity”, the struggle of the Slavs, the exultation of their freedom (as it were), and the fruitless Germanization/Magyarization of Slavic cultures from time immemorial. As this epic poem was written in Czech with some Slovak mixed in, Slavy Dceera was claimed by the Czechs and used in their national awakening as well. Kollar and Safarik were determined that the fate of the Slovaks would lay in balance with the Czechs; Safarik believed well enough owing to the background of both men and their training/relationships between Germany and the Czech Kingdom, and their homeland – Slovakia. Safarik was born in Kobeliarovo in eastern Slovakia, and Kollar in Mosovce not far from my own relatives that live in Turcianske Teplice District of the Zilina Region. Mosovce is in the historical region of which Martin is located, and also home to the Turiec on the western edge of the Velka Fatra. Martin (formerly home of the awakening and Matica Slovenska) Both men were products of the late-Enlightenment/early-Romantic period, and both were wholly committed to a Slovak and Slavic awakening.

I will spare my reader a bluster regarding the notion that the Czechs were the answer to the Slovak’s problems, or that the Slovaks needed the Czechs to advance their ideals against the Austrians or Hungarians. I will save it for one of my last posts which will be at WWI.

The legacy of Safarik (1793-1852) and Kollar (1795-1861) enshrines them in the pantheon of Slovakia’s greatest. They were major proponents of Pan-Slavism in the 19th century, and they carried this message to whomever would read them, or listened to them speak. If I have been remiss to explain Pan-Slavism, it is an advocation to bring together all Slavic peoples in an idealistic reaction against their empires, and to boost the integrity of those cultures toward social-equity issues they faced in said empires. If anything, for their faults (in my eyes), Kollar and Safarik gave the Slovaks a feel for modern culture going forward for the first time in their existence. They also gave the Slovaks, through the use of their poetry and songs published in Central Slovak, a never-before rooting in the language of their homeland. This was not lost on the younger Slovaks, either Protestant or Catholic; it galvanized them heading into the years leading up to and including September 1848…our next post.

This period is a most important time in Slovak national memory, Slovakia’s press for status as a recognized entity, and a role in the revolutions that rushed across Europe and the Habsburg Empire. For me personally, 1848 to 1914 is one of the most intriguing stretches in our history. For all Slovaks, this is a period in our history that we as a culture and nation flex our strength in unity… something that happens for the first time in our nearly 1,000 years of existence. We did not have quite this consenual will, possess an identity, and feel able to shrug off the veil that we were “less than” in our own territory. After the “Umbrella Moment”, I will spend a short paragraph to reveal my position on the overall history of the Slovan/Slovaks to this point. I will appeal to my readers to view Dr. Martin Homza’s series on YouTube about the early history of the Slovan/Slovaks. There are 20 entries, you enter “Slovenske Dejiny” in the searchbar, and there they are… a fascinating chronicle of our beginning to the early Middle Ages. They are subtitled and they are half-hour vignettes depicting a history that very few are familiar with.

UMBRELLA MOMENT

At this moment in history, let’s say 1825 to 1840, this is what is taking place elsewhere around the world: In the US the Erie Canal opened (1825), and a revolt by the Decembrists was quashed in Russia. Poet William Blake and Ludwig von Beethoven passed away in 1827. In 1830 the US begins the removal of native tribes east of the Mississippi, leading to a Supreme Court case, and eventually to “the Trail of Tears” in 1838. Uruquay has a civil war that lasts from 1839 until 1851. In Afghanistan, Great Britain and Russia engage in the “Great Game”. Afghanistan, along with Persia (Iran), Khiva (Uzbekistan,Kazkhstan, and Turkmenistan) and others act as a buffer to Russian expansion southward, are territories that Britain influences to hold its northern border…sound familiar? [sorry, I couldnt resist the sarcasm].

In closing I would like to take a moment to sum up my feelings about Slovak history to this point. I have been doing extensive research to gain a better grasp of our history and I know that I don’t know it all…I’m not sure I will be able to. Some aspects that I am sure of is this: 1) that my opinion is constantly evolving, 2) that I have let go of my animosity toward the Hungarians, Czechs, and Austrians…it’s just history and I have to learn to see it for what occured and nothing more. I am learning to keep from taking it so personally, and 3) for a country that has a history such as ours, I don’t know of many Slovaks that beat their chests and get over-nationalistic… and I’m sure they are out there. Finally, I am very happy to be getting so close to where my Grandparents came from; I am endeared to this culture and it to me. I will continue to unearth as much as possible to try and bring our history to a world that doesn’t know about us. We are very young and this only works in our favor. There are growing pains, to be sure, but the Slovaks are a resilient lot and they will find their way…independent of what is going on around them.

I thank each and every one of my readers for taking the time to read my posts. I vow to be a bit more timely and not shirk my duty to get this post out weekly. Until we meet again, take care of yourselves and take care of each other.

Our Sleeping Beauty

Although I live in Bratislava, I can see all of Slovakia spread out before me from here in the southwestern corner. From down here in the Pannonian Basin (Danube Plain) eastward to the Carpathian Mountains and arcing around to the top in the Tatras. From the peaks of the Tatras I see the Fatras down to the South, and to the east, my right, I watch the mountains arc and stretch to the Danube River to meet the Leitha Mountains – the only meeting point of the Alps and the Carpathians. Standing atop the highest point in Slovakia (and the Carpathians themselves) on Gerlachovsky Stit (Shtit) the mighty Vah River begins to wind to the Danube. From its cold mountain run-off and reaching more than 400km (250mi), it is our longest river, fed by too-many-to-count depositing water from the south-facing aspects of the Tatras into the Danube. With misty valleys in both the Velka Fatra and Mala Fatra mountains, an ancient and mysterious sense pulls at ones imagination. This is an naturally gorgeous land and I everywhere I go, I am drawn in by the incredible history that has stirred under her trees and on her open expanses. In all of its cardinal points, Slovakia is my “Sleeping Beauty” and now in our look back into her history she re-awakens and reveals herself as she blossoms into a national awakening.

The Mala Fatra at sunset

HISTORY CORNER

At the start of the 19th century, we should keep a couple things in mind: 1) that this an embryonic stage for events that will occur in 25/30 years from now; 2) the Slovaks are and large not exposed to a widely generalized language as yet. Aside from Bernolak’s codification of the Slovak language, there was a lack of literate skill, meaning that a significant portion of the population could not read of write… this was still the domain of church leaders, university and monastic scholars, and the upper classes. This includes the nobility, and the mostly- German burghers of the towns. These two examples are just two of many obstacles the Slovaks would have to navigate going forward.

Another issue that the Slovak would have to overcome was the fact that they had to base their claims as a nation on natural rights, as opposed to historical rights; in effect they did not have a territorial or administerative basis (historical right), yet they were long-time occupants of their territory (natural right) Although the Slovaks had the energy and drive to join this new and modern age, they weren’t as well prepared as their nemeses… the Magyars. Their creation would take time since many dialogues were taking place about not only what literary language should be used, but alos how to work with or around the fact that there were others in their territory, i.e., Germans, Magyars, Czechs, Croats, Poles…etc. This wasn’t a social/cultural question as much as a major political question because a national consensus will be on the line.

Intermingled with the issues of language, and political consensus, are yet more daunting tasks like education, general welfare, and sufferage. I would like to say a few words about the study of history in general; it is silly to think that “one issue”, or “event” leads to a change in the historical path of a cultural group. There are always a myriad of actions and ideas that influence any historical outcome. As the early leaders of the awakening discussed these factors, they were also attempting to settle and centralize political and social entities that didn’t have a voice or focus due to the stranglehold the Hungarians had on the many ethnic groups in the kingdom. The Hungarian noble class considered themselves part of the “Hungarian nation”, even as those in Slovakia (Upper Hungary) spoke Slovak (any of the many dialects) and some deemed themselves as “Slovaks”. The true Slovaks that dwelled in town and country were not given specific rights, at least none that were lasting. Many laws were adopted to more or less enfranchise the native Slovaks, but most were never enforced or were ignored/erased altogether. This political give-and-take made it difficult for those in the early 19th century to rely on any particular group to aid in raising political or national consciousness. The Slovaks did have a strong ally in the Croats, a relationship of shared aspirations, and I will touch on that in a later post.

The Biely Vah as it winds away from Krivan. Krivan is a national symbol for the Slovaks. “Biely”means “white” in Slovak. Krivan is shorter than Gerlachovsky Stit, but its granite massif is a symbol of Slovak resolve and strength.

One of the biggest issues at hand was the lack of political experience; this could be drawn on to propel the awakening forward. We are talking about a culture that was barely getting by, in the larger scheme of things, as its existence was essentially habd-to-mouth. There was no real voice for them in the Hungarian Diet, and this was a moment in Slovakia’s history when its survival was increasingly challenged. Example: In 1790, Leopold II (Habsburg) recognized Hungary as a free and independent kingdom, which in turn set in motion the “guarantee of national status” and thus certified Hungarian/Magyar nationalism. Keep in mind that the kingdom included many more ethnicities than the Magyars, who were easily outnumbered and rarely used kindness to extend their rule. In the late 18th century, the door was flung open for “Magyarization”. This was a policy by which the Hungarians attempted to push their language and culture on all of their subjects. Even though the Austrian Habsburgs had decreed that German was the “official language” of both realms, this did not deter the Hungarians. Magyarization will appear again in the 19th century, with near-devastating results for our Slovaks. The Hungarians also viewed Leopold’s edict as a pathway to overcome the loss of its standing in population since the Ottomans still occupied most of its territory.

All of the issues I have recounted are just wrinkles in the fabric for the Slovaks to iron out, mostly by trial and error; they will persevere onward as a testament to their resolve, earnestness, and national character. Entering the stage in the next post will be some of the biggest names in the Slovak pantheon: Kollar, Stur (Shtur), Fandly, Holly and many others. In one form or another by the 1820’s and 30’s language will be one of the hottest topics of discussion… to be ultimately settled by Ludovit Stur, and along with the others he will work with and sometimes against the Hungarians to achieve some measure of freedom for our Slovaks.

Before We Awaken

Spire of St. Martin’s Cathedral from a namestie (town square) in the Old Town

   The start of September has been pleasant here in Bratislava. Nearly gone is the heat of summer, the days have been marked by highs in the hi-20’s (84F) and relative humidity in the 30/40 percentile. Although it can get a bit “sticky” at night, it is nothing like I am familiar to in the Midwest of the US. Apparently there is a “heat dome” in Western Europe (with temps in the low/mid 30’s [94-98F] and hotter yet in Spain), and this will only shed off a small amount of heat here into Central Europe.

   In the weeks past, there was a great deal of rainfall and it has slowed cruise traffic on the Danube. The Stare Mesto (Old Town) has been noticably quiet without the tourists from the cruises. For us it is nice to be able to find a table at the cafes and bistros in the Old Town. For me, it is absent of the people from the US complaining about things they take for granted in their own culture, i.e., ice, paper napkins (most places use linen), and the service…which is relaxed and not “hovering”. There are many times when I am engaged by these travelers after hearing me speak a mix of Slovak and English to the kids at my favorite place. “Excuse me, are you from the US?”, is how it starts; then as I try to keep the conversation brief, they are shocked that I have decided to retire here. When I read off a litany of my dislikes, they are taken aback by my frankness; sensing this, I wish them a good trip and go back to my reading and writing. The kids (wait staff) tell me that only the people from the UK have “least-likeable manners” than those from the US. I just shake my head and tell them it will all be over in a few weeks. I should be quick to point out that not all of the tourists are lacking in etiquette, but it is always the few that shed a lasting bad impression. All in all life is good here for me, I’m beginning to feel more at home (an ease) with my new place, and it should improve when I begin my language lessons at the end of the month.

HISTORY CORNER

One of my favorite buildings in Hlavne Namestie

    The official name of this building is “Palace of the Hungarian Discount and Exchange Bank”. I have more research to do regarding this structure. To the left can be seen the Caryatids that adorn the building that wraps around onto Panska Ulica.

THE HISTORY CORNER

As the 18th century ends in Slovakia, there have been the births of a few of the most strident voices of Slovak nationality and culture. Jan Holly (1785), Jan Kollar (1793), and Pavol Josef Safarik (1795). These men, among many others will lead the charge for a greater position in the Kingdom of Hungary in the 19th century. There are many more that will arise and I won’t leave them out.

Since Stephen consolidated his power in the 11th century, Hungary grew with territorial aims and goals to subjugate those they conquered. It was Stephen that cautioned future rulers of the Kingdom of Hungary when he said, “a country using only one language and having only one custom is weak and frail”. I believe this advice would go unheeded and prove to a weakness in the end for the Hungarians. The Hungarians can be seen in this history as at once being amenable to legislation and edicts, and also very reactionary… this my interpretation vis-a-vis the Habsburgs.

As for this moment at the turn of the century, the heirs of Maria Theresa have attempted to legislate and install more freedoms for the lower classes. Joseph II would lead the greatest reform in the empire, reaching our Slovaks by enacting the Peasant Patents. This essentially gave the peasants freedom of movement, once they have made payment to the lords for said freedom. It is important to point out (and to remember) that the population of Hungary proper was severly reduced due to the ongoing wars with the Ottomans; as a result the entire southern portion of Hungary was nearly devoid of people. At the time labor was still cheaper than land, and as the post-Enlightenment ideals of economics mature, we shall see that such “commodities” as land and “human capital” (labor) will become more market-driven. There is still a great deal of the movement of people as the Industrial Revolution is beginning, along with heightened urbanization. At the risk of repeating myself, the Kingdom of Hungary was outside of the Holy Roman Empire (1804). It was also ruled by two crowned heads for a time. Ten years after taking over the the Kingdom of Hungary (1536), the kingdom’s capital was moved by the Austrians to here in Bratislava; it would remain the coronation center of the Kingdom of Hungary until 1830. A move that cemented the Habsburg monarchy as the dominant power in Central Europe. Austria would be able to count on the Czech lands of Bohemia, and Moravia to be a leading edge going into the 19th century, as far as industrial ouput is concerned. Hungary at this time leans heavily on the Slovaks to be their economic engine.

“Umbrella Moment”…Europe And The World At The End Of The 18thC

This a period that witnesses the Enlightenment spawn 3 revolutions in a short stretch of time: 1) American, 2) French, & 3) Haitian. Slave trading increases across the Atlantic while it steadily declines in the East (Russia, Asia, & the Indian Sub-Continent). The Industrial Revolution begins primarily in England on the back of the cotton trade and this revolution leads to even greater changes in not only human cultural and societal terms, but in terms of the environment, i.e., deforestation, pollution, and marine manipulation (canals, channels, dams, etc.). European colonization touches every corner of the globe. Numerous wars occur: Wars of Spanish Succession, aforementioned revolutions, Seven Years War, and in India the Mughals come to the end of their reign (also the end of medieval India). This a moment in history of great expansion; not only in terms of territories and economies, but also in the sense that there is a new manner of thinking, and problem solving provided by the Enlightenment.

I will prepare my next post to follow close on the heels of this blog. In the 19th century we will truly witness “the national awakening” of our dear Slovaks. As I have mentioned in past posts, I want to slow down and advance perhaps at least decade by decade in “the long 19th century”. As always, I appreciate all of you that have been following and commenting. I am grateful to have you join me on my odyssey, and I truly hope you are able to gain some insight into this wonderful country and its history. Until we meet again very soon, please take care of yourselves and take care of each other.

  

Whither The Slovaks?

Old Bratislava Town Hall… begun in the late 14th Century. The oldest town hall in Slovakia. Originally built in Gothic style, and eventually
finished in Baroque. Completed at the turn of the 17th Century.

Apologies for not posting in more than two weeks. I have been very busy on the social side. I am very happy to have many friends that keep me busy, and visiting has become one of my great joys. I am submitting various documents for my “mission visa” to serve under the aegis of Prof. Homza and to carry on getting the word out about the compelling history of our dear Slovaks. I don’t want to waste any time on my social life; so for the sake of history – we will get right to it.

HISTORY CORNER

As we have come this far in the history of the Slovaks, I would like to slow down a bit and attempt to draw a clearer picture of the growth of “Slovakia” in the hearts and minds of the people themselves. These people lived in what is essentially the territory they inhabit today. It was called “Upper Hungary”, by the Hungarian/Magyar rulers…I call it the “Upper Kingdom” because it was incredibly vital to the KIndom of Hungary as a whole. It is true that Hungary held a great many people under its thumb: Romanians, Slovenes, Croats, Serbs… and many others would push for independence. (I use the modern terms for these people and territories.) Hungary considered the vast number of ethnicities under their shield as “Hungarians”, and no more so than the Slovaks. Their history has never been “nascent”, or “budding”. They have always been a cultural phenomena, and there has always existed a historical narrative associated with them. In parallel, there has also existed a narrative to keep the Slovaks in an ambiguous state, and this parallel was in place well after the dual state of Czecho-Slovakia was formed in the aftermath of World War One.

We left off our last history corner with Bernolak and his codification of Slovak as a language; the continuation of identification as a known group of “Hungarian subjects”. As it has been noted in previous posts, Slovak as a language was not among the “official” tongues of the Hungarian crownlands. For many years that title was held by first by Latin, then Magyar (Hungarian), German, and others as a lingua franca. The Slovaks simply didn’t exist as a separate ethnicity in the eyes of the Hungarians. As I have been learning at the elbow of Prof. Homza my constant single question is: how do we establish that the Slovaks were “more than” what the Hungarians were claiming?

The parallel of denial of Slovakia’s history comes from those simpathetic to Hungary’s “epic” of history. It pivots on the myth that they are the descendants of the Huns. Modern genetic studies suggest they are more closely related to the Tatars, and Bashkiris of the Ural region of the Russian Steppe. Certainly not Mongol or “Hunnic”, the name seems to be derived from the language they spoke; Ugro-Finnic. Manufacturing history is the fuel of nationalism, and none are more “overproud” of their nation than Hungary. I have stated many times in the past that the Slovaks were given a “subaltern” treatment by the Magyar/Hungarians. Subaltern is a term that means “less than”, or “subordinate”. The denial of the Slovaks as a viable culture was carried on by the Hungarians until WWI.

The question here is just this: “How does one go about processing and building a history based on fact and not conjecture or supposition”. The answer dwells in archeology first, a common collective of one’s shared history, and territorial intregrity. The Slovaks lacked administration of a territory, and were hidden behind the veil of the “Upper Kingdom” for nearly 1,000 years. They did have the archeology and shared/collective memory, just not a strong linguistic history… that all changes in 1787.

I have pointedly said that my period of study – the Enlightenment until the 1st World War – is the most fascinating for me. It is here that Slovak intellectuals come to the fore and begin the push for the Slovaks to appear as more than a rag-tag group of subjects in the Hungarian, and eventually Austro-Hungarian Empires. The stage is becoming set, and our actors are taking their places. Scholars place Great Moravia as the last collective memory of the Slovaks, albeit it was in its prime almost 1,000 years past (9th and early 10th centuries respectively), the legacy of Great Moravia would live on in the memory of Svatopluk and his uncle Rastislav. Rastislav was responsible for initiating Cyril and Methodius’ establishment of the Glagolitic alphabet and thus gave the Slovaks a central language to use in not only church, but everyday dealings. The old Church Slavonic would be in effect for quite some time as well.

In cataloging how the basics of historiography are applied, my aim is for my reader to better understand what is actually at stake in giving life to the Slovaks of the past, and in doing so, perhaps gain a foothold on this history that can seem so baffling and convoluted. The story of Slovakia puts its roots further yet into the ground at the beginning of the 19th century and we will see further in my next post where and how it grows from this point. Historiography is applied when there is a critical examination of certain sources, and the following synthesis is a result of critical examination of the details.

To be clear, the Slovaks may have had a “collective memory”, as well as a culture exhibited in shared confessional experience; art, literature, and an identifiable territory. What they lacked – by any metric – was territorial integrity, administerial/justice networks, and control over their economy. For the next 100+ years this ownership would be held in Hungarian bondage that used increasingly suppressive measures to control the Slovaks. Prior to Bernolak, the Slovaks communicated firstly in any number of dialects of their liturgy. After 1787, the ideas of Pan-Slavism become a greater issue for many of the ethno-linguistic groups in the Austro-Hungarian Empire… we will visit Pan-Slavism as well. By this time (1800), the Slovaks have developed a particular kinship with the Croats. As a reflection into the future, the 1910 census reveals at least 15 distinct language groups, and surprisingly German (23%) was the most spoken, with Hungarian 2nd (19.5%). All of this in spite of the Hungarians pushing for theirs to be the official language used in schools, courts, and everyday life.

I am going to leave us here at this point, and open my next post with the 19th century in the heart of Europe, giving my interpretation of how the Enlightenment touched the Slovaks (or not), and the growing struggle for greater rights needed by the Slovaks – among the many groups under the Hungarian yolk. I appreciate any and all of you that have stopped by to read this post. I will publish another post rather quickly, as I have begun to amass more research on the Enlightenment/Post-Enlightenment in Austria-Hungary. Thank you from the very bottom of my heart, and until we see each other shortly…take care of yourselves, and please, take care of each other.

The View From Above

Summer Sunset in Bratislava (photo: Ildar Bagautdinov)

In Slovakia during the summer the sunsets are legendary. My good friend Ildar caught the above photo of the golden orb going down behind the Male Karpaty (Mah-lay Car-pahtee) to the west of Bratislava. Ildar took this shot from the top of his building on a terrace there. This sliver of the Carpathians wraps around us; extends from near Bratislava Castle out to and including Devin Castle, crossing the Danube and runs into Austria ending on the Danube Plain. I have have spent some time day-hiking in it, and now have cycled out to it and challenged myself on the twisting roads that rise and fall in this green Eden of ours. One of my favorite outings was last year with Prof. Homza, on a revelatory day in which we discussed many subjects as we hiked through these spectacular preserves. He pointed out ruins, caves (only one is open to the public), and very small villages that revealed themselves from open glades. As of now, my outdoor activities are a bit limited due to a heat wave. A few mornings past, I was soaking wet on an early ride up the Danube and immediately returned home and took a cool shower. I will meander on my bike to the Old Town in the evenings to meet friends; until the weather cools I am going to “cave-dwell” during the day and wait patiently for Fall.

I am going to get fingerprinted for another FBI background check to have all the documentation needed for my next visa round. Prof. Homza is pushing for me to stay at least two years to help him get a book written for the US market; after having aroused his anger with the authorities for making it so difficult, this process called for him bringing in big guns and connections in Parliament to help me stay… under his aegis. He is very happy to help, and this should boost my limited knowledge a bit more, and directly reach out to the ancestors of Slovaks in the US. One of the terms of my “mission visa” is to “guest lecture”; I am elated to lecture for Prof. Homza beginning this Fall term, and who knows?… it might be another of his YouTube ventures. Instead of “Ted Talks”, he jokes, we will have “Ne Talks”. All in all, my language is coming bit by bit, and I will enroll in a course this Fall to get a leg up on understanding what exactly is being said to me.

HISTORY CORNER

We last left the Slovaks during the beginning of the Enlightenment in the west. I mentioned Maria Theresa and her following descendant ruling offspring, as being “enlightened despots” and the manner in which they instituted reforms hardly filtered down to the Slovaks who were for the time being subjects of the Austrian Empire. According to British historian Eric Hobsbawm, we are at the start of “the long 19th Century”. Hobsbawm and Ilya Ehrenburg (Russia) coined this term to denote the period of history from The French Revolution (1789) to the start of World War I as a context for understanding the continuation of ideas that led to a change in the balance of power and influence after World War I. Although Hobsbawm was a devout Marxist, and this influenced his work, I have always considered his viewpoints on nationalism, socialism and capitalism as ideas of a larger frame to consider. He is one among many that have colored my study of history.

The turn of the 18th into the 19th century finds the Slovaks with a common language. After graduating from the seminary in 1787, Anton Bernolak codified the first Slovak language standard which he based on western Slovak dialects along with dialects from the central regions. Along with “collective memory”, language is the one of the key components of a recognizable nationality. “Collective memory” is defined by historians as shared memories of the same experience in significant events. For those in the US, 9/11 would be considered as a “collective memory”. To this point, the people living in the Upper Kingdom would have at least a shared experience of living through generations of Hungarian rule. Yet with components of this sense of connectedness heading into “The Long 19th Century”, and a will to be represented and acknowledged… the Slovaks have another 100+ years to go. For me personally, this is where Slovak history becomes especially intriguing. Secularism begins to grow in the early 19th century, and the Slovaks begin to develop a more modern approach to their art, literature, politics, and the implementation of their ideas for the future.

Again, it is important to point out that the Slovaks had been using Old Slavonic, and dialectical Slovak to communicate with each other as this was the language of their confessional history. We have seen in past posts that Latin, Magyar, German, and perhaps Yiddish were the main languages spoken for nearly 4 or 500 years prior to this period. The Hungarians will press the Slovaks even further to adopt Hungarian (Magyar) as the first language of all subjects in the empire.

Umbrella Art on Nebelova Ulica (Ooh-leet-sa/ street), looking south onto Laurinska and the eastern end of Palace Row.

For context in 1787, Bernolak codifies the Slovak language as the founding fathers in the US are creating the Constitution. Africa is becoming a hub for the slave trade because of the effects of the global cotton trade; it would soon be the sole supplier of labor for the plantations of the Southern United States. South America, having been carved up by Spain, Portugal, the Netherlands, France and Great Britain, were still at least 40/50 years removed from independence; an estimated 5 million slaves were imported from Africa to the southern continent. Great Britain has installed a puppet ruler in India; the Silk Road had been cut off from the west by the Ottoman empire and the Europeans have militarized their merchant capitalism among themselves in both Asia and the Sub-continent. In Tibet, following the rise of the Manchu and under their protection from the Chinese (Qing dynasty) have installed 8th Dalai Lama (lives until 1804). Napoleon is still just a young lieutenant prior to the French Revolution. All of the aforementioned is a reminder of what happens in history simultaneously; I think it is very important to have this in mind when we look at what is happening in our small 19,000+/- square mile area of the Slovaks. If it is okay with my readers, I will try to include this small paragraph in our History Corner to give an “umbrella view” of what exactly takes place elsewhere while our Slovaks begin to gain their footing in this the most crucial period of their history.

One of the countless back alleys in The Old Town (photo: Ildar Bagautdinov)

In the early 1980’s when I began to take a serious interest in Slovak history… some 40 years ago, I had no idea of its length and breadth. I had no idea what they went through for nearly 1,000 years, and even less of a clue of what transpired after World War I. At that time, there were only some well-dated books, and light overviews of Slovak history. Since Columbia College had a rather limited amount of history books in their library, I took advantage of being allowed to read at the library at near-by Roosevelt University. As I said “read” was all I could do; we were not able to check books out. I would go for two or three hours, read, take notes, and leave a pile of books on the large oak table. Robert Seton-Watson’s “Racial Problems In Hungary” left a huge impact in my study. It was one of the few books written (at that time) by someone from outside of the region; Seton-Watson was a respected London-born Scot who became a voice for the Slovaks (and other ethnicities) in the Hungarian Kingdom. He went to Vienna to write articles for a newspaper, and traveled to Hungary in 1906 to research for the articles. It didn’t take long for his sympathies to turn toward the Slovaks and others. Seton-Watson opened the whole of my heart and mind to learning how the history of the Slovaks unfolded. In 1985 I was nominated to compete for a Fulbright Scholarship, and upon completion of my thesis, it was discovered that I was unable to continue due to history not being claimed as my “first subject” and that I was not in Graduate Studies (I think they have changed it to PHD-study only). I am still indebted to Prof. Bell of the Univ. of Chicago for recognizing my hope for a greater understanding of our history; gone now, he will always be remebered with fondness for our marathon debates, and his caution in studying history with “a chip on my shoulder”.

We will visit our Slovaks in the beginning of the 19th century next and I will give a more in-depth look at what transpired. I will also draw on the past (The Magdeburg Rights, the Poles to the north, and the Rus’ to east), and attempt to weave a clearer fabric from which we can see how our Slovaks had lived through the late Middle Ages, the Enlightenment, and on into the beginning of the Modern Era. I am constantly reading new papers (for me) and thus updating what little I already know. Until we meet again; please take of yourselves, and please take care of each other. Thank you for taking the time to read my posts, receive by email/follow, or just pop in from time to time.

The Enlightenment Comes To Slovakia… Or Does It?

Notas Ex Historicus: This is a special edition post in my series on Slovak history. I felt that to attempt to lay out the coming of the Enlightenment would perhaps draw a clearer picture of how it impacted life in Central Europe. The High/Late Middle Ages are the culmination of change that arises from many factors, and I will lay some of them before you. Our Slovaks are occupants of most of the territory we know here in the 21st century, and although some traditions of culture may be nascent at this point, they are one of the many peoples subjugated by the Magyars….on to the Enlightenment.

Europe at the turn of the 14th century was beginning to feel the effects of the Renaissance, the rise of “central mercantilism”, and consolidation of power in banking and trade. As a result of the flow of ideas from both the Renaissance and the Scientific Revolution, the thinkers began a “Humanistic” approach to understanding their world. They believed human nature, and thus human actions were of greater importance than the divine (or super-nature), and push to develop the goodness and potential of human beings along the lines of common interests. The Protestant Reformation occurs in the 16thc and is a result of the too-powerful clerics of the Catholic Church. As we witnessed with Jan Hus, Martin Luther aimed to ideally put worship in the hands of the worshippers. An important note is that there are still many dying from wars of conquest, and various peasant revolts are taking place.

The European population has increased in the 16thc after stagnation in the previous two centuries. An influx of new imported commodities enrich material life – namely superior cotton, spices, teas, and fabrics as a result of exploration to far-flung lands. Commerce within Europe becomes more “continental” (greater borrowing/lending among nation-states), and the manipulation of capital among merchants, traders, and (esp.) bankers harbors the advent of Western Capitalism. Europe mixes this into the new values of culture, politics, and international relations, and as result, the Europeans have a new vision of themselves in the world around them. Ideas borne in the Enlightenment such as liberty, equality, and fraternity were lost on the early Slovaks. Although by the 17thc serfdom was largely eradicated from Western Europe, it was still in place in Central and Eastern Europe.

With the ascension to the throne of Maria Theresa in Austria in 1740 (as Queen of Hungary/ she was also crowned as Holy Roman Empress in 1745) conditions were only slightly better for our Slovaks… there was still another century-plus to go for the Slovaks to gain a voice in their well-being. Maria Theresa was among the “enlightened despots” of the rulers of Europe at the time; as well as Fredrick the Great (Germany) and Catherine II (Russia). They believed that their royal reigns were a product of a social contract and not divine right – like so many crowns of the past. They trusted that they were given the power to rule in the place of any other form of government. For her part, I can say that she focused on reforms to the Austrian military, and the overall efficiency of the Austrian bureaucracy, but she still portrayed a somewhat un-enlightened influence of the past rulers and found it difficult to fit into the spirit of the new order of thinking. She did institute reforms in medicine and an overhaul of the education system. She established the first technical school in the world devoted to mining here in Banska Stiavnica (Bahn-ska Shteve-ah-neetsa). Working against the Hungarian nobility proved somewhat futile when it came to improving the lives of our young Slovak culture.

As the separation of church and state was slowly instituted, the rule of the nobles in the Upper Kingdom instituted a more stern form of serfdom, and pushed for greater integration of the Magyar language. Remember, that Hungary has been essentially under the rule of the Ottomans (at least 60% of the land area), and yet still made up the largest source of revenue for the Austrian crown. The strength, I believe, falls squarely on the shoulders of our Slovaks. Rich in precious metals, agriculture, and central in trade, Slovakia availed its wealth to Vienna. The Hungarian nobles recognized this and retained as much control as they were able… further squeezing our Slovaks. In the midst of this our greatest thinkers come to the fore. Jan Kollar, and Anton Bernolak can be credited, along with others in this period pre-Stur, with attempting to codify a Slovak language. An important idea to always keep in mind, is that these men were theologically trained, and many were leaders of either the Catholic or Protestant faith. In a coming post, I will take the time to list some of them. Also, as a nod to my dear cousin Patricia, I will list authors of papers investigating the history of women in Slovakia/Upper Kingdom of any era.

My end purpose in the coming posts is to draw the reader into taking an “umbrella view” of the history of not only Europe, but the rest of the world. I would proffer that look from high above and see history occuring below you… all at once. If you are able to see the “big picture”, then you will be aptly placed to see how our Slovaks have fared and will continue to fare through their history. From my standpoint, the Enlightenment is one of the seminal moments in European history. In following posts, I will devote attention to the development of the Slovaks as a linguistic group, as a cultural entity, and to the underpinnings of the burgeoning Slovak national aspirations. From this moment in the Enlightenment (18thc), touching upon the ideals along the way, until the 20th century, and ending at World War I – will be the most formative and defining age of the Slovaks. There will also be greater reference to the men responsible for the ideas of the Enlightenment and how it situated Europe into the world order.

I appreciate anyone taking the time to read this special post highlighting the Enlightenment; I promise to get further into the ideas and actions that influence the history of the Slovaks, and allow you to get the notion of how complex this history truly is. There is an ocean of minute details, and I apologize for leaving out some, and including others. My intent is to pique your interest in any (or all) of the past here in Central Europe; perhaps nudging you to look for yourselves. For those reading with Slovak ancestry, I hope it spurs you to look into your roots, to ask questions of your elders, or even come for a visit. You must know that your ancestors provide a link to a past that is real and you are part of an epic historical episode that is still flowing forward from deep in the headwaters of time.

Thank you for taking a few moments to read this post. As always, feel free to send me comments, as it does nothing but sharpen my writing, perhaps focus on an issue you might be seeking to answer, or questioning my methods… every comment is welcomed. Please take care of yourselves, and take care of each other.