With each day that passes, I feel more at home here, and I am beginning to settle in. At my age the language is still coming slow. Last evening at Jelen for our weekly socialization, I was able to pick out a few words here and there. I can utter a few phrases, but hearing it is still my biggest sticking point. If I didn’t mention before, I have a host of people aiding me in another shot at a visa. This an allowance for visiting lecturers. Prof. Homza is sponsoring me due to my acute interest in our history and culture. I am humbled by his aegis. I have refrained from signing up for a formal language class because I have not been sure that I wouldn’t be asked to leave. But at this point, with all the help I am recieving, if I am granted this study/lecture visa, I will enrol immediately. I am eager to be able to hear what is being said to me. It is a difficult language to learn, as there are many rules of usage… much like English.

Prof. Homza has written the first letter of three, and after reading it I am feeling particularly graced. He has enlisted our good friend Vlado, owner of Jelen and we have tapped into his connections. Also we have a pledge from a member of the Office of Foreign Relations in parliament to assist in my efforts to stay… for at least 2 years. I will continue to aide Prof. Homza in his next project – to write a book on the Slovaks for an American audience. It will essentially be a continuation of what I have been doing here in this blog. I want to issue a fair warning to my dear readers and followers – my blogs may lengthen somewhat. I have purposely kept them short, knowing that most who read it don’t have the 10/15 minutes to spend on my missives. There is still a wide ground to cover, and since we are coming into my area of interest – Slovakia during the Enlightenment – I believe that I will slow down a in limning out how our history played out.

I would like to reach out to as many Slovaks in the US as possible. Though my intent is not to connect with only the ancestors of Slovakia, I am aware that many readers don’t understand the importance of truly knowing their ancestry, so in the end perhaps this blog may serve as an impetus for looking back into their own past generations. I will eventually take a trip to Germany to look into the ancestors of my maternal side as well. I ask only that you humor me and continue to read my posts, as I will attempt to let the world know what we have here in Slovakia. To those with Slovak heritage, I say come back home. You will find your old roots still exsist here. The Slovaks are among the kindest and giving I have met in my travels to this point. Once they know that you are a Slovak, you are automatically “kindred” and they are open to sharing their homeland with you. In future posts I will touch on our unsurpassed geography, and the cities dripping with history from their eaves and doorposts.

The History Corner

I left our last History Corner at the end of the Late Middle Ages. The urbanization of the Kingdom of Hungary following the Mongol Invasions in the mid-13th continued through to the Late Middle Ages (+/- 1500 AD.). After previous centuries of disease, population decline, and famines, the cities of Europe began to rebound, although growth was slow. Post-invasion Hungary experienced literacy incrementally. Influencing the urban literacy were main drivers: 1) The Royal Chancery, 2) Nobles and Administration, 3) Ecclesiastic Institutions, and 4) Foreign Towns, esp. where newly arriving Germans were forming hospices, or lodging for religious students. In a transitory period (2nd half of the 13thc) Bratislava becomes a capital of the literacy culture due to its urban chancery… at type of records office for public archives, and in this case – ecclesiastical, legal, and diplomatic transactions/proceedings. Bratislava is documented as having its own scribes in the 14th century, and still preserves the extant charters from periods prior. The charters grant privileges given by the crown to carry on trade, issue its own laws, defend itself, and most importantly, keep records of everyday life. In these extant (still-survived) chancery ledgers are the recordings of legal, economic, and social developments in the city.

In the case of late-medieval Slovakia, it was the most urbanized portion of the Hungarian kingdom. Only a few achives from that period survive in present-day Hungary (Sopron, Buda, and Pest), while in Slovakia most were based in a long scholarly tradition. They were published for the academic public. The oldest town books survive from Bratislava and Banska Stiavnica (1364), followed by Kosice (1393-1405/ a specialized book of judicial protocols), and town books from Bardejov (1418), Presov (1424), Spisska Nova Ves (1383), Trnava (1394), Zvolen (1400), Kezmarok (1434), Zilina (1378), and Kremnica (1426). NOTE: I list these towns with dates to further display that the laic members of their culture were literate, and to denote them for any Slovaks who may be reading this from abroad. Our cities go back into history deeply, and we should be aware that Slovakia’s history is as viable as any other.

Another of the drivers of literacy were the influx of German and Jewish immigrants, among those from the West. These two culture groups alone account for the greatest impetus for expanding literacy in the Upper Kingdom. Highly esteemed for their business and trade prowess, both groups were able to read and retained this trait as part of their families, schools, and houses of worship. Although this does not mean that the multitude of Slovaks were able to read and write, it does set us up for the Reformations, and the growing need for followers to read and interpret the Bible for themselves (this was one of Martin Luther’s intentions).

Latin remains in this period as the primary language of Nobles and Administration, and certainly in the Ecclesiatic writings of the day. We are still without Slovak as a “lingua franca” (common language) among the Slovaks of the Upper Kingdom. In order: 1)Latin, 2) Magyar, 3) German, 4) Glagolitic – the language of Cyril and Methodius… it wouldn’t be until the early 19thc that Slovak is truly codified as a language by Anton Bernolak. The Reformation (and Counter-Reformations) are an impetus for literacy, the spoken word is still the rule, until the the 17th and 18th centuries, respectively. I will revisit the importance of language for establishing the viablilty of culture.

I will post again this coming weekend to show how the Enlightenment (an English term for the Age of Reason – was first used in the late 19thc) came to our Slovaks, what it meant to them, and how it may have affected change in their lives. I thank each and everyone reading this blog. I hope that I can continue to hold your interest; the world simply does not know about our small country here Central Europe. Until we meet again, please take care of yourselves, and take care of each other.

The biggest news is the completion of my bike. It seems that this is the one thing going right so far. It has been an incredible struggle to get all of my documents up to par for the agencies involved in granting my visa. I once calculated that it would have cost me nearly $3,000 dollars to attain the visa from the US. In one way or another I have spent that in time, and aggravation. Were it not for my landlord, “semi-legal consel”, and good friend it would not happen and my dream of living in Slovakia would be quashed. I am in debt to Terry Vaidik, a complete stranger with whom I was connected through a former contact at George Roll. Terry has been the driving force in attaining a letter of recommendation from the Slovak Club of Merrillville (Indiana); he has been eager, accommodating, and indispensable… I am sure he will be mentioned again. I will revisit this subject in detail after it is affirmed that I have the visa and I can stay.

I picked up my bike yesterday June 28th from the bike shop, where Tician (the Slovak form of the Italian Renaissance painter) re-assembled it from the shipping box, and lovingly restored it to its original form. We added a couple updates. It rides like the first time I was on it in 1979. I went directly to the Danube Trail and pedalled easily westward into the sun for a half-hour. It was an exhilarating sense of release to have the physical exercise, and the movement. Bratislava is a “bike town” and I am looking forward to exploring even greater distances than can be reached on foot, and hoping someday soon to be able to make the ride to Vienna. As it is now, I will have to get my bottom used to sitting on the seat, and it is not happy this morning; a little at a time. I returned to Stary Mesto and dismounted to walk my bike as I headed to Dolnozemska krcma for a celebratory cup of coffee. It is one of favorite places to sit in the Old Town. I am in the second block from St. Martins Cathedral on Palace Row. As I may have explained in a previous blog, this is where the nobility and upper gentry lived in Bratislava – especially during the period 1563 to 1830 when just down the row was St. Martin’s Cathedral. In this nearly 270-year span, the cathedral was the coronation site for the Kingdom of Hungary. The most important in ranking lived in the first block next to the cathedral…and so forth.

I was digging the looks I was getting from the other cyclists as I walked to the krcma (pronounced: “kerch-ma” for tavern or pub…sorry, no diacriticals on my keyboard). While I was sitting having my cup of coffee, a cyclist in full regalia came up and asked if it was mine. I replied that it was, and he marvelled at it constantly saying “this is a classic!”. I humbly thanked him and he rode away shaking his head. I walk my bike while in the crowded lanes of the Old Town; seeing people tear through on bike and e-scooters makes my heart race. There is rarely a time without people strolling obvious to their surroundings, many times stopping right in front of me while I am behind them, and me reacting like a football player to make a deke move to get by without running into them. There are also families with little kids running loose in every direction. I would never forgive myself if I hit one of them.

My ride back to my apartment was cut in a third of the time it takes to walk from the Old Town. Normally a 15/20 minute walk, I was home before I knew it. It will be a perfect 25C (77F) here today and I plan on getting out to at least ride a bit of the trail along the Danube, stopping at times to give my ass a rest. Our days have been very nice with low humidity, although we had a spell of 33C (91F) days last week, a nice fast-moving thunder storm blew it all out. Summer isn’t over yet, by a long shot, and we will have our share of hot days. So, I have fulfilled one dream, to ride my 1979 Raleigh Super Course on the streets of Europe. Now I face the daunting task of getting my visa to remain here in land of my ancestors, and to complete the larger dream.

THE HISTORY CORNER

The turn of the 9th century reveals the Hungarians already having launched several raids into Great Moravia and Nitra. There is a great deal of conjecture regarding Nitra. Historians have long been at odds over its existence as a separate entity from Svatopluk’s Great Moravia, or a Duchy of Mojmir II (Svatopluk’s son and heir) following the death of Svatopluk “The King of Slavs”. The area that encompassed Great Moravia (and Nitra – whatever its status by historians) was staggering. From modern-day Czech Republic, to Slovakia and Hungary, Austria, Germany, Poland, Romania, Serbia, Croatia, and the Ukraine. Only Samo’s empire in Central Europe covered any significant territory. It should be noted that Samo ruled over more of a “union of tribes” than an actual empire.

Occurring prior and amid this time, interwoven in this story is the gathering strength of the Hungarians. In the early 890’s Arnulf of Franconia invaded unsuccessfully against Svatopluk, and was rebuffed twice (890 &892). What is significant is that the Hungarians were supporting Arnulf, and it illustrates their growing power as not only a military force, but as a political entity as well. An even greater indicator for me of the future of my beloved Slovaks is the loss of the influence of Methodius; an Archbishop prior to his passing in 885. The Frankish clergy still opposed the growing culture of the Glagolitic liturgy, and succeeded in convincing Pope Stephen V to restrict the use of Old Church Slavonic in liturgy. Bishop Wiching was the nemesis of Cyril and Methodius, as well as counsel to Svatopluk, and it is he who led the denial of Methodius. Wiching was more power-hungry than ecclesastic, switching allegiance from Svatopluk to Arnulf and the Franks as it suited his quest for power. Upon the death of Methodius, Wiching persuaded Svatopluk to expel the disciples of Methodius fro Moravia. Thus in one vindictive act, the entire future of any cultural or literary growth was gone. It would be nearly 1,000 years before the Slovaks would develop a literary language of their own.

One of my many beliefs is that “history is recorded as the annal of the action or inaction of men”. As we travel on through the Slovak past, I will raise this specter often. The instance with Bishop Wiching is merely one in a thousand examples of men influencing future history by an act of self-interest. It may reflect the resolve of Svatopluk at the time, too busy spinning plates to contemplate the outcome of his inaction. Let us just set the lack of forward thinking aside for the time being…this is the Middle Ages after all. Any short discourse on how to look at history as I see it will wait. The 10th century will dawn in the next “History Corner” and we shall see the Slovaks enter the next millenium.

I am grateful to those who take the time to read these short missives from Central Europe. Thank you to those who are following in email, were directed by an inquiry, and anyone interested in my travel and travail away from family and friends. I appreciate any comments. Until we meet again, please take care yourselves, and take care of each other

It was once said that “small minds discuss people, average minds discuss events, and great minds discuss ideas”. This quote is often cited as an Eleanor Roosevelt-ism. I am extremely fortunate to have friends here that don’t find my need to discuss ideas as tiring. It seems as though I learn so much more in this manner than four or five hours of research. I was out with my friend Ildar last Thursday evening and our topics varied, always returning to ideas, history, politics, or business. A prior outing with my good pal Daniel revealed this tendency as well. Scattered through these conversations are questions about family, growing up in our hometowns, and our journeys up to this point. Over the course of the evening, dinner, some drinks, and coffee we cover a vast territory of ideas and concepts. There is no stone that remains unturned during these winding conversations. Also included is a near-constant bombardment of book references and global perspectives that I hadn’t been exposed to. I find it refreshing, and understand it to be part and parcel to my journey, greater awakening, and in the end – the reason why I made this move to Slovakia.

On the evenings when I stay in, Vlad pops by after he puts the kids to sleep, and our conversations can be revelatory for me. All of the conversations that I am involved in make me realize that I still have so very much to learn about this world…quoth Socrates – “all I know, is that I know nothing”. I am aware that of all the things to truly know, and I merely want to know myself more clearly. There are friends in the rest of Europe that I have yet to visit, and based on our time together, I look forward to more of the same.

On Thursday morning last week I had a plan to take a boat up the Danube to see Devin Castle. The castle, in ruins – thanks Napoleon! – is one the oldest sites of continuous fortification in Slovakia, and it is considered a national treasure. My visit wasn’t meant to be; the gods did not smile on me. Our boat experienced engine problems not far from our destination, and we were forced to turn back to the dock. I received a refund, and decided to put the trip off until the school year was up. Our boat was filled with numerous class trips and it was not very enjoyable as we motored up the river. I may even bike to it, as it is only 6 miles (10km) from Bratislava. I thought it would be nice to take the trip by boat. Hopefully it will be a nicer trip in midsummer when there will no schoolkids running and jumping about. Apologies for sounding like an old curmudgeon.

Summer is in full-tilt here and the squares of the Stare Mesto are crammed with groups of tourists milling about, stages with bands playing music (everthing from symphonic, to folk, and modern jazz), and people enjoying scene. As I have mentioned many times prior, the Slovaks are an “outside culture”, the namesties (town squares) are movement personified; kids running around, couples pushing prams, and tables jutting out into the space with folks eating and drinking. I have a favorite krcma ( krurch-ma/pub) that I love to sit and write at. The coffee is superb, as well as the menu; they also serve Hooegaarden Weiss, and I can sit for quite a while writing, drinking coffee, have a Hoeegaarden, and just watch the never-ending parade of people as they come down Palace Row. It is in the 2nd block of old palaces, so it was the home of 2nd-tier nobility during the coronations that took place at St. Martin’s Cathedral… two blocks away. They amount to big apartment buildings with ornate facades. Since I have decided to have a beer from time to time, giving up my sobriety to really enjoy this “culture of moderation” (none of my friends “pound beers”, and if we meet it may be one and on to tea/coffee/water), the Hooegaarden Weiss has become my favorite. It goes well with a meal because it’s very light, and coffee sits on top of it nicely. I am conscious not to make a habit out of it, preferring to drink sparkling water/coffee most times. My waiters and waitresses at Dolnozemska Krcma are good kids and know what I’m doing…it works out well.

On Thursday night last, Ildar and I sat at Dolnozemska for almost 3 1/2 hours before realizing the time. We hatched a plan for me to go to his hometown of Chelyabinsk, in Tatarstan ( a federated republic in Russia), and then on to Kazan – its capital. Chelyabinsk sits on the south-eastern flank of the Ural Mountains, which extend from the Kara Sea in the north to Kazahkstan in the south, and it is generally considered to be where Europe ends and Asia starts. It would fulfill a life-long dream to stand on the Steppe and see where our history rode through on its march west. All of this is dependent on what happens between Ukraine and Russia. As it stands, we would have to fly from Vienna to Turkey, and then back up to Kazan. My other outlying hope is to see the old Silk Road, which lies further south in Asia. Maybe someday….

As it stands, I am very happy to be here in Slovakia, wander the streets of Stare Mesto, reading the doorposts, interpreting Latin and trying to get a better idea of what happened here for centuries. Visiting with friends is a daily occurrence, and I am waiting patiently for my bicycle to be finished. My mechanic Titian (like the Italian painter) is very keen on restoring it to its original 1979/80 form, and the parts are a slow-go. As I am posting this on Monday, 19 June, the highlight of my weekend was getting to talk to my family from the US. Also, I went to Ildar’s to watch the Formula One race from Canada last evening. Because it was in a time zone “behind” us, we met at 7pm, and he insisted on cooking a meal and for me eat with him. Always the food and drink! I really love this culture. As always, we had great fun, and cheered on our favorite drivers while jabbing each other in jest. He has become a favorite of mine, and there is always so much to share and learn for me.

THE HISTORY CORNER

We last saw Rastislav in Great Moravia in 855, and from 858 until 863 he was involved in intrigue and war against him. Once he settled into a somewhat peaceful period, he decided to rid himself of Frankish influence once and for all. Frankish priests were still working in Great Moravia and Rastislav turned to Rome for teachers who could educate local priests. There was no response from Nicholas I in Rome; this was a big mistake as it could have been a historic opportunity to establish the Roman Catholic Church in East Central Europe many years ahead of time. As a result of Rome’s snub, it was suggested by Byzantine clergy who were active in Great Moravia for some time, to request the same from Michael III the then-emperor of Byzantium. As the Eastern Schism of the Catholic Church was beginning, Michael III was all too happy to seize the moment for the Orthodox Church, and sent the missionary brothers Cyril and Methodius. Rastislav was beseiged by Louis II (Ludovit Nemec) in Devin Castle, it came to a stalemate as Louis was not able to overcome either the castle nor the fact that he and his Franconian army were outnumbered. Devin Castle (Devinsky Hrad) was outside of present-day Bratislava where the Morava River flows into the Danube. The Morava served as a natural divider between the kingdoms (the Franks and Great Moravia), as it does today forming the border of the Slovak and Czech Republics…respectively. Louis called Devin “the unspeakable fortress”, and this also marks the first outright mention of Devin in the area of present-day Bratislava.

Rastislav and Louis compromised, as Louis would withdraw, and not attack Great Moravia, and Rastislav swore his loyalty to Louis – doing so in order to allow Cyril and Methodius to evangelize the Slavs. In 867 Rastislav gave the eastern half of Great Moravia to his nephew Svatopluk, it would become the Principality of Nitra, and we will see it rise to become a force in Slovak history. Cyril and Methodius, in the meantime, set about devising the Glagolitic Alphabet; it became the first alphabet in use to transcribe Old Church Slavonic, and denotes the birth of the very beginnings of Slavic literary language. The brothers reconstructed the Proto-Slavic ancestry from which all Slavic language is derived. It is impotant to point out that some Eastern Orthodox and Eastern Catholic churches use later Old Church Slovanic in liturgy to this day. It is long thought that Cyril and Methodius translated the Latin Bible using Slavic dialects that were spoken in the outlands of their home of Thessaloniki in modern Greece.

The period of Great Moravia and the Principality of Nitra is decisively the very first notions of statehood, and the solid foundations of a noteworthy body politic in Slovakia. Rastislav in his far-reaching vision, built and organized a sovereign state, retained a lasting legacy of religious and academic learning apart form the Franks, and left an empire that his nephew Svatopluk would enlarge in the coming years. Cyril and Methodius installed Slavic as a liturgical language with the “big three” at the time: Latin, Hebrew, and Greek. What was left behind by Ss. Cyril and Methodius, is a rich and vast heritage that spans time, empires, and influences people and events to modern-day. They are more than worth a short inquiry, and I for one have gained a bit clearer insight into this region and its cultures. In our next visit to “The History Corner” all eyes will be on Nitra.

A humble and grateful thank you to those who have stopped by, get this blog via email, or found it in a search. I appreciate the time you took to look at my post. I wish you all well, and until the next time… take care of yourselves, and take care of each other

My dream of retiring here in Slovakia has gotten one step closer to becoming a reality. My FBI background check finally arrived by mail from the US… a 4 week journey. It is the single-most important document required for my visa application. Among all of the birth certificates; my Grandfather,Grandmother, my Father, and my own… this background check is the linchpin. I have Letters of Recommendation coming from Slovak Clubs in NW/Indiana (Thank you Terry Vaidik), as well a letter from Prof. Homza here in Slovakia. I am excited to say that we will be filing this week, and that means that I won’t have to pack and run out of here at the end of the month. Just as importantly, I am digging myself out of the financial foxhole from stay in the US this past winter. The sense of comfort that I have here is hard to describe. From the issues of healthcare, to food and travel I believe I made the right choice to retire here.

Thankfully, I have a nice circle of friends that freely discuss ideas with me, and it is refreshing to get “non-Western” reponses to my queries. To have my landlord as my best friend and confidant is a major stroke of luck. I am learning the ins and outs of this culture in leaps and bounds. I am happy to set aside time to help him with the small projects that he has here at the building we live in. I keeps me as active as I could possibly ask for. Being able to ride my bike in the coming days will only add to a more energetic lifestyle. My guy Titian (like the Renaissance painter), is restoring the bike to its 1979 quality, and it is taking some time. It’s okay; I live in a European mind-set now and have learned to shed off my US “sense of urgency” to most matters such as this.

One of my favorite pasttimes is to wander through the Stare Mesto (Old Town) and attempt to read the inscriptions on the the posts and lintels of the structures. Virtually all of them are in Latin, some in German, and a few in Hungarian; I haven’t found one in Slovak yet. Professor Homza draws this corelation to Latin America; he calls it “Latin Slovakia” in his own humorous manner. This highlights the fact that for ages Latin was the official language of empires and reigning administrations. For me, this is where my education starts. While travel to a variety of places here in Europe have been quite enlightening, I return here to Bratislava with an amazement that borders on gawking. While moving through the history, I am sure that my ancestors were not filled with my wonder. I’m convinced they were more concerned with their day-to-day survival. It would be a stretch to say they spoke in Latin, even though it was the “Lingua franca” of their day, I am convinced they spoke a local dialect of Slovak, directed or connected to the liturgy, and handed down from Cyril and Methodius’ Glagolitic interpretation of the Latin-based bible in the 9th century.

On the language; it can be a bit humbling and frustrating for me. All of my friends can speak at least two languages alongside English. I push to speak and hear Slovak, yet they want to converse in English. So, I am humbled by the fact that I never had instruction in another language and they utter another like it’s nothing. I stopped beating myself up over being so narrow-minded for so long. The language will come, I know it, and I have to be patient and give myself space to let it sink in.

The History Corner

We visited Samo’s empire last, and the Frankish merchant – “Slavic King’ (latin: Rex Sclavorum) was responsible for being the first to unite the Slavic tribes. His reign was short-lived at 35 years, reached into only a small portion of future-Slovakia, and yet set a precedent by building key alliances among the Germanic west and the Slavs in the central-east. Samo also established and maintained elaborate long-distance trade relationships. Both aforementioned factors are key to building empires; at some point we will see excerpts of my papers…”Empires On The Way Up” and “Empires On The Way Down”, respectively. Samo’s intermarriage with Wendish noblewomen (it is said at least 12), aided in his capital as a ruler. The Wends were Slavic-speakers that dwelled on the edge of the Germanic settlements. This refers to a group, or tribe, and not necessarily people with a homogenous make up; mostly West or South Slavs within the Holy Roman Empire.

With the fall of Samo in the middle of the 7th century, Slovakia hangs in a stasis until the early 8th century when Pribilina comes to the fore and establishes the Pricipality of Nitra. [Note: I will use the term “Slovakia” to refer to the modern-day integrated territory we know] In Nitra was the first consecrated Christian church in 828, and in 833 Nitra was combined with nearby Moravia (an eastern region of the now-Czech Republic) to form the Great Moravia. It would appear that Pribina was a vassal of the Moravians and thus Mojmir I (Moy-meer) usurped Nitra and formed Great Moravia; much of this is debated among scholars. Still, this a tumultuous in all of Europe; the heirs of Charlemagne are waging war against each other, and anyone allied against them. The empire-building going on in the Slovak sphere was not a single entity. Any accumulation of wealth or power, does not go unnoticed, nor does it occur without the aegis of someone more powerful. Mojmir wanted to secede from the Franks, as they were the strength behind his throne. The king of the East Franks, Louis the German (grandson of Charlemagne), was not happy about this threat to his holding in the East, and Mojmir I was either killed or fled. Louis assisted (installed) Mojmir’s nephew Rastislav in acquiring the throne. Amity doesn’t last long in this period, and Rastislav, hoping to weaken the influence of the Frankish priests in his kingdom, ousts them, and then repels an attack by the Franks in 855. This sets us up for the appearance of Cyril and Methodius in the next “History Corner”.

I appreciate all who are following me on my journey of discovery, both within and without, and I am thankful for your time. Please feel free to comment. Until my next post, please take care of yourselves, and take care of each other.

Vlad and I had been talking about a get-away to his family’s place in the Tatra Mountains since I arrived here in Slovakia. We decided that this past weekend would be perfect for it. Along with our good friend Ildar, and his son Kristof, we left later on Friday 2 June and returned on the following Sunday. Due to obligations on his part and Kristof’s after-school activities, we left on the 3 1/2 ride in the early evening. The ride wasn’t as long as it sounds. Kristof (Kreesh-tof…sorry no diacriticals) fell asleep very quickly in the back seat and we talked between the three of us for most of the trip. Ildar drove his his boss’s car and we sat in the front, talking and getting to know each other a bit more.

We stayed up and talked after our arrival, drinking a couple beers and eating. I had a beer, and didn’t really think anything of it. I let 23 years of sobriety go away just like that. I’m not sure where I’m going from here; I liked it, and the way that I have seen my friends drink here appeals to me. I may not have another, and start all over again, or I may attempt to drink moderately – I will wait and see. The most important thing is that I will not hide it from my family and friends. Upon my arrival at home on Sunday evening I called some family to let them know what I did. I followed that up with a few calls on Monday. The funny (odd) thing is that I don’t feel any remorse or guilt. The guys didn’t force me into it and as I said it felt natural. I will see what transpires from here.

Moving on, we hatched a plan for Saturday to hike up toward Lomnicky Stit (Lomneetski Shteet) and enjoy the gorgeous mountain setting. Lomnicky Stit is the 2nd highest peak in the range at 2,633m (8,638f); only Gerlachovsky Stit is higher at 2654m. Lomnicky Stit can be considered comparable to Aspen or Vail in the US… very wealthy, very popular, and with its steep slopes – challenging. We took a short walk to the grocery store on Saturday morning, returned, and Ildar made a great breakfast for our day ahead. I knew going into the hike that either my wind or my hip would be a problem, but I didn’t give it much thought. In the Spring of 2022, while in Theth for the first time, I fell as I was fly-fishing. I banged my right hip on a sharp rock and sustained something beyond a “hip-pointer”, I paid no attention to either issues as we geared up and started out. The sky was a vivid blue and the small patches of snow on the mountainside glistened; shimmering like strands of pearls in the sun’s light. The wind was cool, crisp, and carried the scent of pine and mixed deciduous trees

The ascent to Lomnicky is possible by one of two ways. One way is to hike up. The second mode of travel is by cable car. During my first trip here in 2017, my cousin Elena and her husband Gero took me here. We rode the cars up to the peak. I won’t forget it. The view was stunning as you can turn and look into Poland to the north. As we began the hike, I felt my wind (breathing) was strong but not taxing me. I credit a walk up the steps to the castle, two sometimes three times a week. As I progressed up the steeper aspects, my hip began to complain, and I consciously shut it out and kept striding. The views from the open glades reminded me of being in our Tetons. Both ranges are relatively sharp and craggy, with the Tatras being somewhat older. Something awakens within me when I am the mountains, the spirit is refreshed, and I feel “at home” due to my past with the Rocky Mountains in the US. Scrambling at times, and pushing up at others, the pain in my hip became more pronounced. It felt at times as if someone was trying hammer a nail into it. The boys urged me on, and in the end I am glad I fought through the uncomfortable ache and made it to the 1st cable car station. I decided that I was going to stay there, take the weight off of my hip, and just revel in the warm sunshine. The breeze blew cool and crisp; the trade-off was invigorating. Vlad and Kristof stayed with me as Ildar continued up the mountain…he is a beast!

Vlad and Kristof stayed with me, even though they didn’t have to. I kept apologizing for holding them up, but he assured me it was not a problem. I stood up and walked from time to time to keep my hip from getting too stiff, walking on level ground, and kept plenty of water in me as well. Vlad ran into an old law-school mate, and they visited for some time. In the end, Ildar was above us enjoying a beer, a smoke, and the view. He was going to take a car down and meet us at the bottom; I had the same plan. Vlad and Kristof would hike back down, and we met there. After having the group together, we walked back to the house, and cleaned up for dinner. We decided to eat at “Stara Mama” (another way to express Grandmother).

After dinner and a walk through a massive sports car gathering, we retired to our house. We talked about Ildar’s stay in Florida when he was young, growing up in our respective towns, and everything else under the sun. Ildar is from Chelyabinsk in west-central Russia, very close to the Ural Mountains. The region is called Tatarstan, and his descendants are one of the three main groups of Tatars (Volga, Crimean, and Siberian) in Russia. He was surprised that I knew what a “Tatar” was, let alone some of the history surrounding their past. We have become fast friends, and I am grateful to Vlad for introducing us. His stories about his time spent in Miami, Florida… are both amusing and informative. The biggest laughs came from the difference in culture and the use of some of the language peculiar to the south. We are forever “dude” to each other now.

Sunday morning, another incredible breakfast by Ildar; I washed dishes and cleaned up the kitchen(as I had done on Saturday – I had to contribute somehow). We readied a plan to drive east to Strbske Pleso (I’m not going to transliterate, you roll all of the consonants together/ Pleso is a mountain lake formed by glacier), and spend some time there before our drive back to Bratislava.

Ildar remembered this killer restauracia at Strbske Pleso, it was called Monte Mory Cafe and the patio faced out into the valley with the Tatras behind…it was panoramic! We had some beverages, taking in the view and relaxed before a walk to see the sights. Ildar had been here with his parents when they came to visit and wanted us to experience it. Dead on…super! We walked into the resort and the hills combined with my hip made walking on level ground a chore. The boys continued on while I sat (again) on a bench and waited for their return. I was so at peace and ease; it was entirely calming to feel the breeze and watch the clouds dance through the mountain above me. Strbske was the site of the Nordic World Ski Championships in 1970. The two ski-jumping platforms are a major visit there.

We met up after a bit, and I hobbled back to the car, which we left up at Monte Mory Cafe. We drove down to a tradional restauracia for something to eat prior to our drive home. I had the most outstanding Garlic Potato soup in a bread bowl. It was perfect, actually an appetizer, but sat well with me. Our ride home to Grosslingova was effortless, Ildar is a driving machine, and we were home in 3 hours or so. I know that I will see him again soon, and I can’t wait. He has such a good disposition and is always upbeat.

I expect to branch out more as I acquire my visa, but this past weekend will stick with me for quite some time to come. I discovered some aspects about myself that I came to grips with, and am now becoming closer to the culture that I live in. I appreciate everyone for following along on this adventure of a lifetime. I will be picking my bike up from the shop soon, as it had to be re-assembled after being shipped here from the US….another “dream come true”. I always had a hope that I could ride my “classic” 1979 Raleigh Super Course in Europe. Now I am about to do it! I promise to post again soon, and wish you all well. Until then, take care of yourselves, and take care of each other.

Getting to know Bratislava a bit more now, I am exploring yet more and more of what it has to offer. I am not surprised. although it is a small very city as capitals go, Bratislava has a tightly-knit group of artists that support each other. I will usually meet my friend Kirill, who I met at a Blues gig. I stumbled onto them by sheer chance, and began a connection with Kirill. He has introduced me to the players in Bratislava; I can say without doubt that these cats are exceptional. My circle of friends has begun to widen, and it keeps me busy, allowing me to get to know the culture and more importantly, gaining a better grasp of the language. I devote at least 1 to 2 hours a day to learning new words and phrases. My biggest problem is still hearing it. All in all, I can easily say that anytime I am speaking with Slovaks, they are quick to help me…yet happy to speak English also.

My walks will always yield an interesting find, and I remain in awe of the history. While many of my Slovak friends take it in stride, they get a kick out of how much I know, and the fact that I am so into it. This week I am going to take the 26 bus out to Devin Castle, and explore it. The castle is a major historical landmark, and should be much less busy during the middle of the week. As I have mentioned in earlier posts, the Danube cruise season has begun, and the narrow streets in the Stare Mesto (Old Town) can get very congested with the ship’s disgorged passengers wandering about. I have learned (finally!) to have Kava (coffee) later in the day, or earlier in the evening, once they have returned to the boats. My favorite place to go is Dolnozemska. It is in the “second tier” of Palace Row; Ilyia, Lenka, Vicky, and Juraj make the best cup of coffee and pour the best Kofola. I can sit and write, and just take my time. If it’s slow, the kids will chat for a few moments with me… helping with my Slovak and just getting to know each other. Dolnozemska is located in the next block east of St. Martin’s Cathedral. St. Martin’s lies on the western edge of the Stare Mesto. Aside from being one of the oldest churches in Bratislava (begun in 1311/finished in 1452), it is significant for acting as the coronation church for the kingdom of Hungary between 1563 & 1830. The first adjoining block of palaces were for the highest ranking nobles, and then the 2nd block going east the lesser nobility…and so forth. More on that in a later post.

As noted before, I am very close to getting all documents in order for my visa. I am waiting on recommendation letters and the FBI background check. As long as I get the application and associated docs in by the middle of June, there will be no need to run out of Slovakia at the end of the month… when my 90-days-in will have expired. I will be given a document stating that my residency visa is being processed, and therefore able to travel freely in the EU and Schengen. As it stands, I have plans to go to the Tatras with Vlad and his son Kristoff, and also to see my family in Orava. In few more days, I will be riding my bike everywhere. I am looking forward to getting around Bratislava by pedal. It is a super bike-friendly place. Vlad and I have a place set up here in my apartman (apartment/Slovak), and I have secured a couple of long shoe trays to set the bike in, should it get wet…or whatever. If I haven’t stated so; I really love my apartman here, it is roomy, yet small enough to keep clean. I have a washing machine and drying racks, since there are no such things as laundromats here; it is very convenient and easy. This is the manner in which most wash (& dry) their clothes.

I haven’t heard any comments regarding my posts, so I am going to take it upon myself to decide to have a “History Corner” at the end of my blogs. Along with my observations of being someone new to Slovak culture, and living in Europe in general, I am going to include my long-standing practice of trying to explain the history of the Slovaks (as I see it), and the overall history of Central Europe. It seems as though I get a bit heavy-handed with the past in these blogs. For my dear friends of Slovak descent, I think it is important to know more about where their ancestors came from; I truly believe it has been a major ingredient in shaping who I am. It is no secret that I am incredibly proud of my heritage, and I want to reflect that to others with my shared ancesty. We have a history that is second-to-none; I don’t mean that in any “nationalistic” sense – bragging or chest beating – just historically, and culturally long lasting. Despite being under Magyar (Hungarian) rule for nearly 1,000 years, the Slovaks have been able to maintain the structures that underpin so many of the more well-known nationalities of the world. Without any further ado….

History Corner… The Slovaks; Who Are We?

Picking up where I left off in the last post, the Magyars had been preceded by the Avars. The Avars were an amalgamation of many tribes of Eurasian nomads, that overran the Pannonian Basin following the recession of the Huns ( Avars are sometimes reffered to as “Huns” themselves) in the 5th century. They arose from the Pontic-Caspian steppe (remember my “Caspian Conveyor Belt Theory”), and entered onto the historical stage in the mid-6th century, establishing the Avar Khaganate. They had varying degrees of ancestry resembling that of Northeast Asia, notably present-day Mongolia and Manchuria. Most often though, they looked like the average person in the area. The Avars are well-known for invading and ultimately destroying Constantinople from 568 to the 620’s. The Avars also wielded considerable influence on the Slavic migrations to the Balkans, and hired the Slavs as warriors to impose their will on the Pannonian Basin.

During their last siege of Constantinople, the Avars were defeated and thus sent packing from the Pannonian Basin as the Franks began to rise with Samo becoming an “elected” king in 631. He waged war against the Avars after unifying the Slavs, and as a result of his bravery in battle was given the title “Slavic king”. The Franks were a tribe from the lands between the Loire and Rhine valleys, and Samo was a merchant who had gained political power as well as economic strength. After the Fall of Rome, the Franks consolidated power inside and outside of the old Empire. Samo’s empire would extend to modern-day Slovenia in the south, and reached into most of the Czech lands and included but did not contain the Slavs in now-Slovakia. This still a restive period in Central Europe with peace and prosperity still far off. The early Middle Ages will see the Slavs expel the rest of the Avars from the right (south) bank of the Danube and Samo’s empire dissolve after his death.

There is a great deal to tell about this early period of our soon-to-be Slovaks, and I will always try to remain on a linear timeline instead of jumping around. I appreciate everyone you all for following me, and I sincerely hope you are all hale and healthy. Until my next post, please take care of yourselves, and take care of each other.